Search results

On mine I always just open the petcock and let it drain into a large pan. Same with the drain for the block too.

Well replaced the idle air control today. Decided to go with the BWD from advance. Seems to have improved the situation drastically. It's idling better than it ever has since I got the truck. It's always been a little sluggish on the acceleration but that problem seems to have gone away too. it...

Yeah I've tried quite a bit of cleaning actually. The symptom is when the engine is warm, then stopped for a few minutes, then started. It will start but immediately die. After this the only way to start it is to "give it some gas" and keep giving it gas for a about 30 seconds and them it'll...

Looks like my Dakota probably needs a new idle air control. It looks like I can get: Master Pro: $30.99 from Oriely BWD: $43.29 from advance or $53.99 from Oriely Duralast $30.99 from autozone Various $39.57 to $75.53 from NAPA Unknown brand $74.00 from autotech Thoughts or recommendations?

I'm probably driving a lot if I even put 3,000 miles on the truck in one year. I've considered doing 6 month dyno ocis but even with that the summer oil change would be like 500 or 600 miles and the winter change would probably like 1,600 or 1,700. Since this oil change was 9 1/2 months I'm...

Yeah looks like the synthetic and long interval is not working out in this application. Seems to be working great in the prizm. Oh well... As an additional note it was cold out this morning and the oil pressure in the Dakota was great again. I think this just confirms that the pressure problem...

I'm pretty sure the problem has to be a viscosity issue. This morning it was cold out and the pressure was great again. Last week it was unseasonably hot out and the pressure was week. This tells me the oil is getting too thin when hot.

hmmm, well maybe RTV explains the silicon and Blackstone is right that the extra wear was from weak pressure. And maybe the weak pressure is from thinned oil because of the fuel dilution....Yeah, I'm thinking I'm gonna dump the oil in May and refill with out MMO to see if that improves things.

Well I sent in a sample from this run to see if it would shed any light on what's going on here. The viscosity was a little low and the wear levels were much higher than average for a run of only 2,000 miles...

Unit: 1997 Dodge Dakota Engine: 3.9 V6 Miles on unit: 108,928 Miles on oil: 2,094 Months on oil: 9 1/2 Almost all trips 4 to 6 miles. Filter: Napa Gold Changes the oil and took this sample early because the truck was exhibiting lower than normal oil pressure...

I was thinking that 10 months wasn't too excessive. I was also considering of sending in a sample of this oil change to see if it would reveal something, if I do that though I think I probably shouldn't add MMO before draining. I changed the PCV about 10,000 miles back. As for the thermostat the...

Originally Posted By: mechanicx I'm not sure what kind of oil and filter you are running, but obviously it's not good enough to run it for over 5 months or so with short trips with this engine. Been using Quaker State synthetic and NAPA Gold. Just seems like such a shame to dump the oil when...

Yeah I think I feel more comfortable going the MMO route than trying to use kerosene. On the sending unit I think it might be better to get a manual gage to check the pressure with first as the sending unit on this truck is rather expensive.

Yeah actually I'm not to fond of the whole kerosene in the engine concept but I've seen a lot of people mention it. I did some searches on the forms mentioned by Francois. Lots of guys saying pressure fluctuation from hot to cold is normal, or needed a new oil pump or needed a new pressure...

It's the 3.9 V6.

As long as I've had this 97 Dakota it's had a tendency for the oil pressure to fall into the lower side of the normal band after the engine gets hot. I consulted an reliable mechanic and he assured me this is ok and we even checked it with a mechanical gauge...it was within manufacturer specks...

I just looked at the spec sheets and seems to me that "universal" is kind of an incorrect description. BG and Amsoil both specifically state that their "universal" ATF should not be used in Type F applications, Mobil 1 also states the Synthetic ATF should not be used in Type F application, and...

Thanks all, it seems that Amsoil is the favorite. And by the way I thought maxlife was a synthetic blend?

I wondering what the community recommends as the best ATF to use in a Chevy Prism/Toyota Corolla. I discovered today that the oil seal on the right hand side of my transmission is leaking so that means I'll be fixing that soon and putting in new fluid. I had it flushed last summer and I know...

Thanks! It seems to me that as long as you drain the oil with the engine hot that should help to get most of the particles out since the heat would help to reduce any residual magnetic force. I like the idea of checking the area above the magnet with a q-tip. That seems like a reasonable way to...