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I would keep some as bar and chain oil, flush oil, probably take the rest of to the local agriculture auction place.

The oil in the tractor changes it's self until I get around to fixing it and the generators don't belong to me.

Yep the flat back ones appear to make more heat. It's almost like the OEMs knew what they were doing....

My only issue with threads up is it allows the sludge flecks collect at the bottom, right next to the bypass valve. Its probably not a problem.

I have a Kubota tractor and I work on many Kubota generator flood lights.

A little more than a year and a half on this Hyundai sonata air filter with k&n oil. The air filter box is slightly cracked and the factory cold air snorkel was blown away from the deer encounter. Go fast ones are probably worse in every way I can think of and cost $300 to $400. Used OEM ones...

I'd run that in something like my Kubota that doesn't run too hot.

Have you seen any of my Kubota posts where they go hundreds and sometimes thousands of hours on an oil change?

Yep a normal can of supertech 12oz r-134a weighs about 437g. The one I filled weights 511gm lol. I'll keep it in the fridge till it's time to use. It absolutely feels more full than any of the news cans I have. If I had to I could shooting a few ounces into the already full can but I'd rather not.

I'm going to check the trash cans at the local auto parts stores for empty 134a cans later today it's supposed to be over 100f with low thunderstorm chances. After 2 hours most of the ice is melted and the can feels full. If I can find an empty can I'll weigh it before and after. It's...

Oil test. Used PP 5w-30, filled to just past the low mark topped off about 4 to 6oz at a time with Mobil1 V-twin or Castrol GTX classic car 20w-50 oil. Still seems like it's losing viscosity. Right now it's got PP 10w-30 in and had a couple top offs of Castrol GTX 20w-50. Good thing PP is...

I'm avoiding AI as much as I can. It seems to automatically pop up when I google search something. I only trust it if I kinda already know the answer. I'm not relying on it for something I know nothing about.

Looks like you're set for a while on break-in and flush oil.

Problem is don't have a recovery tank I can feed into. I have a gauge manifold. The disposable tanks I have have built in check valves so you can't pump into them. My recovery bottle that I can pump into has R-290 in it. So this is my solution. From a more elegant time. Only problem is I've...

Less people.

The unloader valve makes sure the motor will turn over nice and easy when the thing gets short cycled. When the air compressor cuts off without an unloader valve eventually it will bleed the pressure back through the compressor and unload it's self.

If it comes out of your machines then you know where it came from. Fram synthetic endurance appears to filter well down to less than 10 microns. If it's going in a neglected mower with event horizon black oil to be used as flush old for an hour or less what's it going to hurt?

Yeah I was looting a dead relatives place a few weeks ago and found old harbor freight mailers showing the 173cc mower engine back in 2016. I believe I was $120.

It's a John Deere 5.9L model 3179. It was supposed to be a backup generator, probably used it in place of properly wiring in stuff. Or used it instead of paying to have 3 phase ran out somewhere.

Ordered a radiator support for $250. Special hybrid specific radiator fan with shroud for $200. So far so good and still under a thousand. I don't want to try and work around a hot radiator trying to dig out the Radiator support and not blow the A/C charge. Probably won't have a tree to support...