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Sentence him to work at an in and out burger for 5 years, make it 2 years if he provides excellent service and is an outstanding employee.

Fix it up a bit. See if they hate electric ones as much as most people and they'll be back for it.

This is how I do it. Assuming it's running like yours. Always check the air filter. Look for primary and secondary air filters, about 96% of the time there's one, sometimes there's two singles working in parallel about 1% of the time there's a primary and secondary not located on top of each...

Still doing work. In nearly 30 years of messing around with car batteries and doing it almost daily for around 20 years I would say crimped ring terminals and naval style lugs are the way to go. But I'm also lazy and I'm not about to cut off perfectly serviceable and corrosion free battery...

Looks like the Ford oil life monitor starts screaming at you after 7,500 miles or 180 days. Yeah after 180 days it's only going to have 1 to 2 thousand miles on it at as this isn't going to be a daily driver once I get the hybrid put back together. I'll probably just reset the darn thing when...

Alright the cuts have it. I pulled it off stuck a twig in the anti drain back valve and let it drain for an hour or so in the catch pan then set it on my wood pile. I will cut it open later today.

You should have put it for sale on here I bet someone would have bought it for a lot more than. I would have paid 100 for it but I can't drive to NC to buy a lawnmower.

Yeah. My wife car is about to be on a reconstruction title.

Dry ice and alcohol costs money. It would work pretty good with cooler ambiant temps. On cooler days using regular ice like I did would barely work. Depends how contaminated it is, what it's contaminated with. If it's not from a burned up electrical compressor you could always run it and see...

Usually the vacuum advance is limited around 10 or 12 degrees when using egr. Too much vacuum advance with egr definitely can do that.

Supposed to look like this on both sides. Oil spots are from my dodge. This is what it looks like Ebay price to fix it is like $500. Hopefully I can do it for a lot less with junkyard parts.

Good idea.

$169 Air filter is in the trash 240 miles away, I think it was a fram and have no idea when it was installed. The sway bar end links are sitting atop my unsorted hardware collection at home. They're fairly long 8x1.25mm bolts in good condition. Oh yeah and he's got a brand-new looking Craftsman...

He was driving around with a broken anti sway bar for probably for a long time. I've never driven a vehicle without a functional anti sway bar, it was wacky. Took 20 minutes to fix. 2 TPMS were bad had to go to discount tire drop it off all day and spend $160. The check engine light was on...

I say always run a bypass in a full flow.

I was going to top off the diffs but the fill plug has barely enough room to unscrew the plug and remove it. I'll need to put a new tube on my gear oil pump setup and jack the truck up high enough to get a 5 gallon bucket with pump handle. Probably go buy a greasegun. I wonder if the diff oil...

When you buy a wix 51859 you get 2 of them for around $100.

These are low pressure filters. They'll burst at more like 250psi. There's plenty of oil filters that don't have a bypass. 2 to 20 micron particles cause most of your wear, there's a lot of hydraulic filters that go well into that 2 to 20 range. For example my log splitter came with a 25mu...

I forget they made these things foreva, 2010 and 150,000mi so probably about normal. Yeah I heard about those 4L chain guides, I just didn't know what years they were. Looked that up before we bought it.

Brother in law truck (it's a Ford explorer sport Trac pick-up truck thingy). The oil needed to be changed, let's call the oil bitog black. Well I figured it was neglected so I rounded up some PP 10w-30, PP 5w-30 and a jug of 5w-20 PP that was keeping dust off my shelf in that one spot and...