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Bingo! Your oil viscosity is either "enough" (no added benefit from higher viscosity) or "not enough" (excess wear). If your testing shows bearing wear then something probably needs to be "fixed".

Cleaned up that nasty link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/121722899154?_skw=samarium+cobalt+magnets+1/4

Cleaning the pan and magnets is far more important than the filter. Most of the metal wear particles will go right through the filter.

Doesn't look horrible but I wouldn't want that in any of my trannys. How dirty are the pan and magnets?

I would use a premium synthetic 75w90 or 110 in both to keep it simple. What is your ambient temperature range?

This is always in the back of my mind. No corporation is looking out for the consumer, we exist only to be harvested. If $$$ = MORE and the risks are LOW ENOUGH then it's always the right decision.

An excellent review of engine oil viscosity in application in typical Engineering Explained fashion. Clear, concise and wasting no time. Topics covered: - boundary, mixed and hydrodynamic lubrication - GM 6.2 recalls - NHTSA MPG penalty - 5w30 / 10w30 - 0w20 / 0w40 - viscosity impact on fuel...

Thanks! If anyone knows where I can buy an actual, new belt for a Jatco JF009E CVT1 it would be much appreciated. Last time I checked, eBay was all I could find and I'm pretty sure they were either used parts or incorrectly listed.

I'm not saying what to do, I'm suggesting that there are various costs involved when dealing with a CVT repair / replacement. Everyone is in a different situation, some have more money, some have more time, energy, resources available. I agree, in that I would never install a CVT without...

If you price it out I'm sure it's pretty cost comparable either way. - remove CVT - install reman CVT - return the core - pretend your parts warranty has value Vs - remove CVT - clean, teardown, inspect, clean, rebuild - install DIY reman CVT - pretend that you've done this 8x before as...

Thanks for doing this and sharing. There is SO much out there for OBD2 scanning and too much of it is compromised, overpriced, etc. It would be a full-time job just to thoroughly review all the options even if they were free.

Think of the belt as a clutch and you're on the right track. There is a small, continuous slip between the belt and pulleys and any fluid contamination that bridges the gap will cause excess wear to the belt, pulleys, and everything else that's under pressure / contact (bearings, pump, gears...

It that normal for this car?

PSF should not turn dark, if it does, it's contaminated with metal or cooked.

Submersed, as long as the fluid is circulating over the magnet. On older systems with metal reservoirs it's easier to just add magnets to the sides/bottom of the tank. With newer, plastic tanks it can be tricky as you don't want to potentially block the flow (magnets don't stick to plastic).

Another AT / CVT / DCT issue I've come across frequently are those who complain about service (may or may not contain aftermarket parts / fluid) AFTER a long history of neglect. It's quite common for a vehicle to come in for service with a transmission / engine issue that has just been filled...

The year is not important, just the spec/type. The vast majority of all CVTs in automotive have the same/similar fluid requirements. Keep the fluid and magnets clean, keep the fluid temperature and level in check and you'll be further ahead than 99% of the general public.

Don't forget to add magnets into the system where you can, the main contaminant in PS fluid is metal wear particles.

Would like to see if there's anything in a 40, otherwise it's about on par with Costco (saw $45 for two 5-qt this weekend) and a little cheaper than Walmart ($29 for 5L).

CVT fluids are pretty generic, I just took a peek at Valvoline Maxlife ATF and it lists FE & TC for Toyota, Castrol Transmax is probably similar. If you want a premium fluid look at Red Line, Amsoil, HPL, etc. As per your old fluid I would use it up first even if it's just to flush the tranny...