favorite valvoline oil is the EP HM followed by R&P. the EP HM has shown to clean some by some of my C&P’s. if i know the engine needs severe cleaning i go to R&P, otherwise EP HM all day.
warranty purposes: buy the 0w-20, take a copy of the receipt for records, return and refill with M1 0w-30 or 0w-40 IMO. dealer won’t do a UOA all they care about is if it’s clean under the valve covers.
carquest premium is made by premium guard as an XL filter. look up “carquest premium C&P” on here and you’ll see the MANY i’ve cut open. always flawless and 99% @20um. silicone ADBV and base gasket with coil spring and integral bypass valve. hard to beat unless buying directly under the premium...
i’ve worked on both and will choose traditional studs over wheel bolts every day of the week and twice on sunday.
as pointed out, if some tire tech had buffered up the threads on the hub, you’re in for quite a bit more work than just knocking out studs and pulling new ones.
old champion labs built M1. i wouldn’t try that run with a M+H built version. they’re now being built by highlinewarren and resemble a premium guard build.
absolutely. i think in a perfect world you also have a good quality cap in parallel for the super punch loads but it works much better, stopped my lights from dimming before i upgraded to a 370amp alt.
exactly why i bought it for my accord. not putting the work in to do valve stem seals. maybe this slows the burning down, maybe it doesn’t. i know ill dump it in the few cars i do pro bon maintenance on that seem from every orifice.
9688 filters are fatter than the 7317 but not much if any more filter area. a fram 3593a sized filter is about the largest filter you can get for the application. it’s what i run on both accords that call for 7317
regardless of paint this should sell for good money. it is not heavily modified, 4.0 and stick shift. these are gold for anyone wanting to build a nice trail rig. when i was looking into them in houston, non-molested ones were in the 8-10k range.