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Same. I travel to Alaska a couple times each winter and rental cars/trucks typically no longer come with block heaters. It can be -17F in Fairbanks, and they start right up. I only let it idle long enough to scrape the windows (2 or 3 minutes) and I'm off. My trusted technician told me the...

I think it is clear that all brands can have some bad ones. East Penn is well regarded, yet I had two each of their flooded Group 49 H8 batteries fail in less than two years. I moved on, but realize that was probably the exception, rather than the rule. Same with Optima Red Top....I had three...

Actually the Costco battery warranty was (until early 2023) a three year warranty. What they did was refund your money, then you bought a new battery at the prevailing price, with a new three year warranty. That allowed them to capture any price increase between purchases. It wasn't a bad...

My BMW is from the same year with the same oil requirements of LL-01. M62TU2 V8 though. But since new, I simply used the approved LL-01 oil, but cut the intervals from 15k to 7500 miles. I'm proudly at 368,200 miles as of yesterday. No oil burning, and normal maintenance. Engine doesn't...

The OPs engine has 100k miles. Is there a reason a higher mileage engine would require more frequent oil changes than whatever the normal oil change interval is? Or is this specific to Volvo engines? Just curious....I have changed my oil and filter every 7500 miles on my BMW since new, and it...

I see the Interstate AGMs can now be from China, Germany or unmarked on country of origin...those are presumably USA. I have not seen the "made in Korea" Interstate labels yet, as show in post #25 above, but have seen the "made in Korea" AGMs at Walmart and bought one almost a year ago for a...

Just an FYI on Batteries Plus....the manager explained this applied to car batteries....I don't know if it applied to everything the store stocks.

I've found for all practical purposes, AGM is superior for most cars and applications, regardless if it came with a flooded battery originally. If one is "short tripping" they really should consider using a battery tender regardless of battery type a couple times a month.

Get an AGM from WalMart...four year free replacement warranty versus the three year pro rated at Costco. Price will be similar.

I have had terrible luck with rebuilt starters or alternators, unless they come from the dealer that made the car. Most of the rebuilders for the chain stores and online retailers do it cheap...so Chinese bearings, and "Transpo" Chinese electrical parts (voltage regulators, etc). Garbage...

"Crappy Tire" living up to their name? ;) Percentage coverage is how a pro-rated warranty works. Better than nothing...but just barely.

Same with Batteries Plus stores in the USA....I had to jump through hoops before they would warranty replace a flooded East Penn battery that was clearly on the way out. First they wanted to clean the terminals, charge it (I already did all this) and then have me use it for a week and retest...

Interesting data point, but not very useful. What was he using previously? Maybe if he ran straight Pennzoil Platinum 5w-40, he could have gone the same or even longer? It worked for him, but there is no telling it will work for you. Keep eating your pudding though.

I used to work for Duracell many years ago. They are like any multinational corporation. While they make most of their "major cell" batteries (AA, C, D, 9vt, etc), they subcontract a lot of stuff other than just car batteries. Some flashlights, lithium, watch cell, rechargeable and specialty...

I'm still failing to see how adding 20% of LL-01 at 1000ppm over LL-04 with 800ppm zinc is going to make any sort of measurable difference over the life of the engine. I'm not a math major, but that cannot be much of an increase. Use one or the other...trying to out smart the oil manufacturers...

I used Cibie on a couple different cars in the past, they were great. I did not find the Hella E code to be that far off...more than acceptable.

I have gone back and forth on LL-01 and LL-04 on my M550ix as well. It's on a stage 1 making 570hp at the crank after the last dyno test on a MainLine hub dyno.

Were? I still daily drive the car...since new. 7500 mile oil changes, only LL-01 or in the past year, occasional LL-04...whatever is on sale at WalMart. Can you explain how forced induction is harder on catalytic converters please?

I have used LL-01 on my 2001 BMW 540 M-Sport since new. 23 years later and 367,600 miles I still have the original catalytic convertors and all factory emissions equipment working perfectly fine on the car. It is daily driven. I'm unconvinced your custom blending is going to do a thing, but...

Then why wouldn't you simply use an LL-01 oil?