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Well, true, the combustion should be cleaner. And I'm no expert on blow-by composition. But it would be my guess that the VTA OCC (or AOS) vents a moderate amount of unspent fuel. If you know what a "Buc-ee's" is, some of them in the south have the 92 octane ethanol free. What does it use...

While I understand that the Fram Ultra is supposed to be a good filter, just knowing that Fram foists crap on unsuspecting novices with the regular filters is why I wont buy any Fram products. I usually use Amsoil filters but I would also use Wix or other reputable brands. I guess I don’t...

P.S. I know I'm a bit of a pig, in regards to emissions. Honestly, when I first did the project to make it a high horsepower, if I had known that it would pretty much require VTA for the crankcase ventilation, I might not have gone forward. My shop didn't know I would have an issue with that...

Not removed the DI, but rather using both DI and MPI. So I have 4 direct injectors + 4 conventional injectors. A device called a "Split Second Controller" divvies up the fuel. Never heard of "walnut shell blasting". Googled it... fer real??? I've heard of Seafoaming. But my I'm running VTA...

Maybe even make what I did this time my usual mix. 5 quarts 5W-40, one quart 15W-50. Car has unusually large 6 quart capacity. (If you do a balance shaft delete, which I did not, it is a massive 7 quart capacity).

I hadn't heard of Torco. I can look into it. One thing I forgot to mention is, I am not running CATless, I have a GESI street legal 3-way high performance CAT. A lot of people with similar mods to mine run CATless but I am not. So I think that means a high zinc/phosphorus oil like HPS would...

Thanks. I'm curious as to the relationship between High Performance and BitOG. I see sticky threads for them. And some Penzoil sticky threads. But in general, I thought BitOG tries to be vendor neutral. So, is High Performance really something special? In the past, I've spent money on...

I've got upgraded engine mounts, differential mounts, and upgraded end caps within the transfer case. And of course a high torque rated clutch with matching flywheel. But, otherwise, internals to the diff or trans, no. Nice purple. Mine is velocity red.

So, I've got a 2007 Mazdaspeed 6. The engine has been built with forged internals. Big turbo and dyno'ed at 600 AWD WHP. The OEM oil recommended oil is 5W-30. The engine builder recommended 10W-40, or even 15W-50. The later seems too thick to me. My performance shop recommended Motul...

Well, that is sufficient for me to conclude to not use the break-in oil after the first 50 miles.

So, the consensus here seems to be to not use the break-in oil. And most people I’ve talked to say that the builder’s oil change recommendation interval is ridiculous. (50 miles, 150, 250, 500, 1000). But, I will do it. But I will ditch the break-in oil at the 50 mile mark, maybe even a bit...

Yeah, I was speaking of 540rat. And, doing a search here seems to indicate he doesn't really know what he's talking about. Although there were so many hits, I gave looking before finding threads that actually gave much detail. The threads I found mainly said things like, "we've beaten that...

Thanks for the advice. I was thinking about that, the Mobil1 15w-50. Still seems on the thick side to me, but it does seem like people use it. There are also 5w-50 oils like Amsoil that I can get for cheaper than the Motul but more than the Mobil1. I'm in Houston, so, "cold" for me is like the...

That's his point. According to him, zinc is not the anti-wear panacea it is cracked up to be. And that in fact, zinc by itself is useless, even worse than useless. There are zinc additive products you can mix into your oil but every time such zinc additives are independently tested, they show...

Hope it is okay to revive an old thread. I was looking for information on break-in oils and found this thread. I just had an engine built and the vendor recommended an elaborate break-in procedure and told to use break in oil. They said to change the oil at 50 miles, 150, 250, 500 and finally at...

Well, to tell the truth, I’m having some buyer’s remorse over the project, spending too much money. But, its money spent. So, to spend a few extra pennies on the oil is insignificant. I did ask my builder what oil he recommended. His first response was just a high quality synthetic to reduce...

So, I’ve read a lot of threads. People like M1, PP, RL, Amsoil, etc. All good oils. So, the application is a Mazda DI. Engine recently built. Car is a 2007. Will use break-in oil at first. Stock recommendation is 5w-30 I believe. Not concerned about Mazda warranty, that is long long over. So...