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Originally Posted By: Greasymechtech If the PN fits, I could care less where the bypass is. I like the RP filters so I won't state to try another brand. Will have to check pepboys this weekend to see if they have them . Everyone has their preferences. Thanks!

do you know what i am thinking and obsessing about with this? when i cut my filters apart the cans are full of junk that is not attached to the media. in the winter the bypass valve opens. i dont see that as obsessing. i would like to keep that junk in the filter where it belongs is all

cool! have you cut many apart yet or are you just starting on this? is there much junk in the cans you cut apart or is it all stuck to the media?

so, i have a question for any royal purple oil filter users. i am looking for a premium filter with the bypass valve located on the end nearest the threads rather than on the closed end. i have seen some pictures of cut open royal purple filters and some have them on the open end and some on the...

Originally Posted By: dnewton3 There are a few things to gain from a larger filter: 1) consolidation of filter stock 2) more capacity for cooling 3) more capacity for holding contamination 4) greater efficiency from slower volumetric flow I can see some context of hope for the first issue; it...

well when i cut them apart i always poke the adbv open with something first to drain the oil out. however i notice that there is a lot of junk inside the can not attached to the filter media. poking the adbv open could let some of that out as its just floating around. so turning upside down for...

nice to see that, thanks for posting. have you cut open any other brands of filters for this explorer? how does the quality of construction compare to other brands if you have?

Originally Posted By: Clevy Firstly don't get caught up in this nonsense about synthetics aren't rwally synthetics diatribe. It's the finished formulation that matters and not one single component. Secondly if you want to extend the interval I suggest picking an oil and sticking with it and...

well i could convert all my numbers every time i post but all my guages read in F and once you get above 50C i think in farenhight as well... but 210f=98c, 215f=101c, 220-230f=105-110c and 280f=138c thats probably true, then any mist would leave deposits. i should probably take the valve train...

i dont know enough to go based on a gut feeling and call it smart, so i am trying to learn from others so i can make better choices. i realize some synthetics are not synthetics so if you want a real sythetic you would have to do some searching to find which ones are group5. i think the benefit...

Originally Posted By: TFB1 Originally Posted By: Festiva_Man Originally Posted By: turtlevette One more to add. Why replace oil based on time, ie why do all oil manufs mandate a 1 year overall limit? what i have been told is that oil exposed to air oxidises over time, moisture gets in every...

Originally Posted By: Shannow Originally Posted By: Festiva_Man so, are they saying that oil temps at the bearing were as high as 300f or that just the shell of the bearing got that hot and the oil heated up to something in between as it didnt take on all the heat because its going through there...

Originally Posted By: Shannow Originally Posted By: Festiva_Man so, are they saying that oil temps at the bearing were as high as 300f or that just the shell of the bearing got that hot and the oil heated up to something in between as it didnt take on all the heat because its going through there...

i have a question. in that test they allowed the oil supply temp to vary as the engine heated or cooled it on its own. their chart (figure 1) on page 144 shows the supply oil temperature varied from 87c-121c (188-250f). then on page 147 they say this: "Compared to main bearings the big end...

Originally Posted By: turtlevette One more to add. Why replace oil based on time, ie why do all oil manufs mandate a 1 year overall limit? what i have been told is that oil exposed to air oxidises over time, moisture gets in every time you have dew or frost, if the tbn gets low but is still...

hey, my father has a 1995 7.3L with over 600,000km in central alberta. he used to use 15w40 conventional. the glow plugs quit working which is typical for those trucks and then it wouldnt start below +5c without being plugged it. he fixed the glow plugs and switched to the cheapest 0w40...

Originally Posted By: used_0il Festiva; I'm not making recommendations on, or what to do, I'm just saying what I would do with my $84.00 in Canadian Tire money. The 10W30 I use 90% of the time is Pet-Can Duron CJ-4/SN. I do UOAs locally 18-24 months apart for a few different vehicles, $22.00...

ha! figured it out

Originally Posted By: abycat The uoas look great! better than my 60000km 2011 versa with pp in it. I only go 6000km though but I bet you could go 13000 if you made sure it didn't thicken for winter like previously said. thanks! why the short oil changes with synthetic? from my reading on this...

Originally Posted By: Roob Biggest factor for extending your OCI is the type of driving you do. Synthetic or conventional will all be limited with severe service, synthetic having the edge. Personally I'd stick with the conventional and more frequent changes. As you fall into the severe service...