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I have read the on BITOG the assertion that because a engine is specified with an oil grade in the EU it is ok to use it in the US, even though the owners manual doesn’t list it as approved in the US. I am saying that is not true. Engines are designed with clearances to accommodate a particular...

So grade doesn’t matter? Why spec one at all? Great news! Put anything you want in drop the OCI to 3k and zoom zoom. Is that really true? I’d love to see the evidence. Does that mean that fleet users have an exemption from EPA standards?

Maybe it was a gas motor he put the 15w40 in..... But the point was he used the wrong grade and was denied the warranty claim. My larger point is you shouldn’t go out of recommended grade because a different grade is recommended somewhere else.

The answer is in the specifications for the bearings. Wide enough for 60 grade. Do you think that coyote engine will last 200k miles? I know of a gent who bought a Duramax and it’s first oil change filled it with 15w40. The engine failed within the warranty period and was denied because the...

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/ford-5-0l-coyote-oil-specs.241961/page-2 The short of the explanation is that Ford spec the track cars for very hot oil.

It’s not theory, they are engineering guidelines. There are almost alway exceptions to guidelines for that matter, but that neither invalidates the guideline nor makes it prudent to ignore them because of an exception. What years are we talking about? Is that in all applications?

Since were posting charts I’d like to comment on the logic that is used in grade change. Just because EU uses X grade does not mean you can use X grade in the US when Y grade is specified. Why? Because you can change the grade requirements by selecting bearings with different clearance. It’s a...

Put in oil that meets specifications. Use an OCI of 3-5k and do an oil analysts every oil change. Oil won’t fix under sized bearings. The UOA will let you find impending bearing fail and you’ll spend about the same money.

Once it’s up to temp it take ~20 minutes to cook it off. A short drive is 30 minutes.

Agree. Just as important, correlation is not causation!

The average person services their vehicle when something breaks. I’d contend that an engine serviced as recommended in the OM will last 200k or better regardless of brand of oil. Which is why EV’s with no ICE have service management looking for replacement revenue.

Oil pressure is not the surrogate for lubrication but rather a measure of getting the lubricant to where it's needed. IIRC my ISC8.3 had the low pressure light set at 15psi not for the rods and mains but for the valve train.

Originally Posted by ABN_CBT_ENGR Let me give you the correct answer so you can make the best "risk based" and "business based" decision as fits your circumstances. This is the same question I get asked by every client I do a lubrication program for and the answer is universal whether its a...

Bingo! Yet not a single other reply. Thank you for a breath of fresh air! By the time you've spent the money to establish trend you've spent far more than the cost of a single oil and filter change. That is, as long as your sump doesn't hold 12 or 15 gallons.

Agree. It's a value thing, not a cost thing. If you see value in $10 a qt, be my guest. I see value in $3 a qt with the same physics. Here's the thing, when was the last time you had an oil caused engine failure? Use the recommended oil for your engine. Change it at the recommended interval...

Are you talking coolant temperature or oil temperature? How are you measuring it, with the dash instruments?

Originally Posted by LubricatusObsess Like others say, your OCI is too long. The varnish is indicative of this - you're getting oxidation of the base oil, additive(s), or both. In my experience, Rotella's are set up for diesel OCI's. I think they're up to 15,000 miles, but they have 12 gallon...

Without reading every post I'd guess that the turbo seals are a bit worn and the oil is slipping past them. Unless there is either an after running oil pump or coolant pump, most drivers are clueless as to how to cool a heat soaked turbo.

It would be a simple part substitution on assembly. The reality is that it shows any oil is probably good enough for the duty cycle of the average car.

Originally Posted by klt1986 If you look up the oil specs for the Lexus LX570 (uses the exact same 5.7L engine as the Tundra) that is sold over seas, you will see that 5w30 is the recommended oil. Mine currently has a sump full of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30. I see this argument used frequently...