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Originally Posted By: Donald Techron as per bottle directions. Top Tier gas. Forget MMO and Lucas. . I knew the response had to be from Donald as soon as I finished reading the second sentence. Apparently MMO didn't sit well with him at one time or another

If you notice, it does NOT say it is still the original formula, anymore. Read the label with utter concentration, and you will see original is used in a sneaky way, every time it is used Steve

incredible amount of detailed info----could never find this anywhere else but here--! Thanks Guys Steve

my 2004 vintage Tahoe ran 151K on Valv Synpower or NAPA Syn 5-30. Never had piston slap--ever---maybe because of iron block. Last 80K or so, burned about 1 quart in 5 K miles, so that is when the oil was changed--just before having to add a quart. I did a UOA when the OLM was at 127% and it...

OP===I'm sure you would get a lot more accurate responses----------if people only read your post first,before responding.\ My choice in your situation would be to use 7500 miles as a max OCI--there is no prize for getting the last stinking mile out of a drop of motor oil Steve

and if you are running with cats, if you can, remove the cats before they are damaged beyond repair by the phosphorous in the oil you are burning Steve

has he looked at the PCV and associated hoses--? I bet they are just as bad. IF the PCV is clogged up, the engine will never clean up Steve

You will be fine with the UPF-48. I have used many of the "U" type performance filters on my Corvettes: the UPF-52 on the 1995, and the UPF-48 on my Z06's. Th only downside is the price Steve

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite OP Media sq-cm is sortchanged but OTW looks fine from 1000 miles away. ADBV will seal the gap you are concerned about. BTW, I was born in Indianapolis in the middle of the last century Isn't it referred to as, India-noplace--? Steve

That Toyota 2.5 is as tough as nails. Had a relative recently who ran the engine dry due to a clogged pick-up screen----more on this one later when i can learn how to post pictures. At 135 K miles, I'm maintaining it now, and just added a mix of VR Racing 20-50 & Lubro-Moly yesterday...

Originally Posted By: Lubener Originally Posted By: L_Sludger Follow the oil cap for your viscosity. I bet a thousand dollars that 0w40 is not specified. My guess too. Don't know why someone would use a weight that is not specified and then wonders why things aren't performing well. WHY, you...

it's close but not the same as Valvoline--look at the cold cranking pressure--super low for V brand, and fairly high for the NAPA product. Speculation has been the V brand contains some PAO to lower the effort for cold cranking. Disclaimer: I still use NAPA syn, but NOT in the winter months Steve

Re--quality of OEM filters--? I almost always use Fram or ACDelco, but recently purchased 2 Honda OEM A01 (the FILTECH brand) for about 4 bucks each. I know the efficiency of the OEM filter (at 20 mics) is about one half that of the Ultra, but just wanted to try the FILTECH. Upon dissection...

OP-appreciate the video--& OFM-thanks much for the translated version. Thoughts: A German company using a dude with a British accent what's up with that--? Notice they never say ZERO-16, it's always the letter O-16 Steve

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite Originally Posted By: Tech819 Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite With that HTHS on the esp you are fine The accord engine are making it almost 70-100Kkm in the States before dying from 0w20/5w20. Stck with a MIN ACEA A3,B4 30 grade. Do you have references...

I thought it was Subie, not Subby -- ??

Well-- ( as the way Ronald Regan used to start a conversation) I've been using FRAM OCOD since the mid seventies and never had an oil-related engine issue Steve

I am a huge moly fan-----> in the right applications: IMO, specifically OPE & higher mileage engines. I have never seen any positive results though, in engines with less than 60 K miles. In higher mileage engines quieter valvetrains and much smoother operation at the engine lugging point, say...

I know that 3 years in my application was too long--UOA showed the Yellow Bottle 5-30 in the low 20 weight zone. It was a Toyota V6 engine which sat for 6 months at a time. If it was me, and I was going to keep the vehicle, after 2 years,an oil/filter change would be a no brainer Steve

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite Not thick or thin but the right viscosity. Didn't anyone learn anything from "Goldilocks and the Three Bears" Engines want what THEY want, not what YOU want them to have Engines want what THEY want, not what YOU want them to have I likethat one...