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may be off subject but years ago chloro parrifins type snake oils were around maybe still are. Knowing that they formed HCL quickly the mfg's added over based CA sulfonates so they had a 5-10 TBN to combat this. But the resulting CA HCL reaction products if not real high in free acid were still...

could be friction material?

not really yes to neutralize acids but not all metal protection is due to TBN. Even "Neutral salts" will corrode and attack metal a high TBN may react with acids but the resulting salts still are a problem.

TBN test is not the end all try 1 oil and test it thats the only way to optimize the oil for YOUR use. dispersant leveal and even metalics make a diference.

keep doing what you are look at a lab report maybe can go 7k on changes.

Thats the advantage to TO oils BUT make sure of the application

ok got it thanks

Interesting I have done exact same thing with h-300 as well as PAO 100. Will have to maybe re think, luckly testing that unit on a routine basis the oil would fall out of vis range and should have been changed out. All tho I have seen straight bright stock gear oils shear in some application...

I use the heavy duty " has caustic" oven cleaner with gloves and a scotch bright pad let soak first for 30 minutes or so.

I'm thinking of trading a brick of primers for more lead.

I cut out water after dinner was peeing too much at night

what I said, some of this I agree some not so much.

then you answered your own question huh

yeah a 80w90 will have high vis at 40C than a 75w which as you say is closer to what temp your car runs at. BUT for the 30 minutes you are warming up the 75w will have higher flow, faster flow to protect gears and will enhance mileage. So part of the question is in winter how long to warm up...

watching this thread agree with some of it some not so much

want to say pearl kerosene but don't think that's it good question.

good point if you need high dielectric oils they WILL degrade due to mositure ingress and dirt so change routinly.

Tractor Hydraulic is a very much hit or miss. Use a name brand will be made with correct attives and vis etc. Over the years there seems to be a lot of "Off Brands" of these oils, many non name brands are were just base oil with AW hydrualic addtives or line wash. Deere warns of counterfeit...

""I would not assume an oil with a higher TBN can directly correlate to engine cleanliness as there are many factors such as base oils used, DI additive package chemistry, and operational envelopes (programming) that can affect it."" Yes I think this is correct and would be very syn/formulation...

I always send in a reference ester of what I think is in there best way