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Another choice, and my preference, is made-in-Germany Castrol Syntec 0w30 (GC). It worked well in my 2.7t and is popular with the 4.2 crowd. It's slightly lighter than a 40w but is a very robust oil. Check it out!

The 1.8t turbo motor requires a robust ACEA A3 oil. I used GC, German-made Castrol 0w30, in my 2.7t for 100K mi with excellent results. The GC is close to a 40 wt. M1 0w40 is my second choice. I always used a German-made Mann filter, available in the USA. I bought them online from an Audi...

I bought an 1988 Chev PU new; it had the 350 cid (5.7L) engine. Drove it 200K mi and used 10w30 dino, which was what the owner's manual called for. I tried 5w30 and syn 10w30. Both resulted in increased oil consumption. I suppose 10w40 might be OK, but I wouldn't go any heavier.

I bought my wife the Nook Color. With the AndroidForNook "Jelly Bean" card it turns it into an inexpensive dual-boot Android tablet. Among other things, this allows one to read Amazon books as well. Enjoy your Nook; the HD+ is a good choice as well.

I had a '95 C2500 with a 5.7 (350) and 10w30 dino worked well in it. I tried M1 once and it leaked so I went back to dino. I'd change the oil every 3K/12mo.

Just like on a car, I/O engine oil should be changed at least annually to remove condensation and other contaminants. 25w40 is an unusual weight and quite viscous. Did you mean 5w40?

VW 502.00 usually refers to a 5w40, or thereabouts, viscosity oil. I used GC (Castrol Syntec 0w30) in my Audi with the 2.7t turbo motor with 10K mi OCIs. I had excellent results after 100K mi. I'd recommend you run your chosen oil 7.5K mi. and then have the oil analyzed, and go from there.

Sure, all viscosities can be mixed. As well as syn & dino oils.

I'd go with GC or, secondly, M1 0w40

M1 0w30 is a pretty light oil (low HTHS). I'd use a 5w30, M1 or otherwise. MC oil is fine, from what I've read.

I found that GC (Castrol Syntec 0w30) works best in my '02 Audi 2.7t. My second choice for this car is Mobil1 0w40. Both meet ACEA A3 & VW502 specs.

5w30 seems like is should work well for you this time of year.

I've been using GC in my 2002 Audi 2.7t almost since it was new with great results and a 10K OCI.. It now has 95K mi. I like it better than M1 0w40, which I tried for one OCI. GC seems to hold up better for long OCIs.

What I did with my Audi was I changed the oil at 5K myself then changed it again at 10K with GC. Then I went with the AoA-recommended 10K OCIs using GC. As far as increased fuel/oil consumption caused by changing the oil too soon, I think that's not correct. If anything, increased oil...

I think PYB is OK, but generally overpriced. I went with Mobil Super 5000 as it has current specs as a great price.

All maintenence, including oil changes were free for the first 50K miles on my turbocharged Audi. But the dealer would use dino oil with a 10K mi OCI! So I always supplied GC for the oil change. The car is still going strong with very few problems after 100K miles.

After following the Audi boards for the last 10 years, I have not read of any engine failures due to oil when the car was maintained to factory-recommended OCIs with a factory-recommended grade of oil. Many of these cars have gone well beyond 200K miles.

Back to the OP, I have to agree with those who specify xxxx miles or one year OCIs. The mileage specified may be for severe-duty, if applicable. Oil "wears out" very little by just sitting in the crankcase, IMHO. Even dino oil.

10w30 or 10w40 in the 60s, 70s, & 80s. Maybe with a can of STP added to the oil burners. 5w30 in the 90s. GC 0w30 after 2001.

Yeah, the dot-matrix printers and the line printers of the 70s were solid. We used DECwriters on the factory floor and IBMs in the office. My first real computer was a HeathKit H11, a takeoff of the DEC PDP11. A 16-bit machine that rivaled more expensive industrial units. First calculator...