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I need to replace a section of hard line for fuel supply and return lines under the car due to rust. Is it acceptable to use compression fittings/ unions to join the new line with the existing line?

Was the car stored in a enclosed garage?

This is why when it comes to critical engine parts, I always bite the bullet and go OEM whenever possible. It's just not worth the risk or headache and aggravation.

I would just stick with a 229.3 of 229.5 oil. No need for low SAPS oil.

Thank you! This is my exact concern. Without actually seeing the nuts in question, I can't tell whether they're junk or not. Yes, I was thinking the same. If brass shouldn't be used, they wouldn't be selling them. And I could only find brass unions and not steel ones except for on Amazon. But...

I've read that brass fittings on brake lines are a no-no. Is that wrong?

I'm planning to replace the brake lines on my car due to rust and I've decided to use the Nicopp lines. The question I have is regarding the tube nuts. I can get steel ones locally but I'm worried they will rust. I see there are stainless steel ones on Amazon but wonder about the quality of them...

So if the master cylinder is brand new, this is of no concern at all. Correct?

I have not. I know this is a service department upsell but without visually inspecting the valves, how would one know if there is or isn't carbon build-up? Would you wait until there is a degradation in performance first? Or would you have it done as preventative maintenance?

I'm looking for opinions on BG direct injection service. The car in question is a 2011 BMW X5 xDrive35i with over 100k miles. The dealer is recommending this service to clean the intake valves since it has direct injection at a cost of $270. At this mileage, there's bound to be some carbon...

Mercedes specifies coolant replacement at 15 years/ 150,000 mile intervals.

You should find out if the specs call for an agm battery or a flooded cell battery. The charging profiles on cars are optimized for one or the other. Using the wrong type battery can lead to charging system issues.

Did you read your owner's manual?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted by Reddy45</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Those are neat cars and becoming very rare too.</div></div> Yes! They are neat cars and the GSX was rare even back then. So judging by all the responses, silicates isn't a concern?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted by doitmyself</div><div class="ubbcode-body">A lesson for all of us: don't believe everything you read on the interwebs! <img src="/forums/graemlins/LOL.gif" alt="LOL" title="LOL" height="19" width="15" /> Except for my...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted by TurboLuver</div><div class="ubbcode-body">This is what I used a couple weekends ago, bought it at walmart for $12.9x a gallon. <img...

What coolant would you guys recommend for a 1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX? The owner's manual calls for ethylene glycol. The car was assembled in 1990 in the USA but the engine was designed and assembled in Japan and shipped here to the USA for installation. The engine is an iron block/ aluminum...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted by paulri</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Valvoline Zerex conventional Green is a true 5 year coolant (most greens aren't), and when I was looking around (previous car) that my mechanic told me needed it, this brand of green...

I'd be looking at the load rating, not the speed rating. You should not put a tire that has a lower load rating than what originally came on the car. Check your tire placard.

To the ones stating to weld a wheel to repair it, wheels repaired by welding do not pass state inspection. I guess if your state doesn't have vehicle inspections, it doesn't matter?