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I have a resonable amount of experience with big blocks in hot-boats, I have found 40wt works great in milder big blocks and 50wt works great for higher HP/rpm applications. I have tried 20w50 and noted it didn't maintain nearly the oil pressure as 40wt after a hard run (this was in a mild 460...

My last truck was '91 Chev with the 350 TBI, best truck I've ever owned, sold it with almost 200K miles, still ran great and burned no oil. A much better engine than the tritan V8 in my new Ford.

I am not trying to put anyone's advice down, but heres some food for thought- It would take 40 hours to travel 3000 miles going 75 mph, now I consider that the car doing that would be at 2800 rpms under a light load, my boat on the other hand generally operates at 3500-5000 rpm's under a heavy...

Tirerack's consumer reports are an excellent place to learn how well a particular tire has worked for others. I tried a set of Firestone Firehawk SZ50 EP's on my last 6 speed Z/28 based on those reviews, man what a tire, glued to the road wet or dry. There's nothing like rolling on good rubber.

I think using a machanical oil gauge is your best indicator of what is the best viscosity, I have tried several weight's in my jetboat and determined SAE 40 performs best (less pressure drop on an extended high rpm run), I saw a dramatic pressure drop even with 20w50, which tells me the oil is...

<blockquote>quote:<hr />Originally posted by Grease is the word: <strong> I really like this unit: <img src="http://www.blitzusa.com/images/11838.gif" alt=" - " /> Holds up to 3 oil changes, although I just pour one change into a M1 5 qt jug for recycling. Then just cap it up and wipe...

I've only had my F150 long enough to have changed the oil once, but here's what I found. Getting to the filter was gravy once the front skid plate is removed, it does leak on the diff when removing filter, next time I plan on laying a couple disposable shop towels over the diff.

I am really happy with the Mity-Vac, works great for me. The sequence I use is start at the brake with the longest line, then to the 2nd longest and so forth. I also think pushing the master cylinder piston past its normal operating range can cause damage. Anyone have more info on this...

<blockquote>quote:<hr />Originally posted by Schmoe: <strong> I appreciate your replys. Now, let me sit back and decipher exactly what I need/want to do. Steve S.....everything I've read about the blowing plug syndrom on 5.4, they say that when the plug blows, it ruins your heads, and then...

Sorry to hear about your Dad. I am not familiar with your climate, but I use M1 10w30 all year in my F150, it doesn't usually get much colder than 20F here, I don't see how you could go wrong with 5w30 in winter and 10w30 for summer, Mobil 1 or Amsoil synth are both good choices (based on...

I recently sold a '91 Chev Z/71 truck that I logged 197K miles on, all with various dino oils changed at around 4k miles, the engine was still very clean inside and still ran great. I would agree that sludge is more a result of mechanical problems or design issues than the fault of the oil...

Stabbin, I wouldn't worry about using M1 in a vehicle with your mileage, I'm using M1 10w30 in my 87K mile F150 with no problems. I also think using 5w30 for winter and 10w30 for summer is a good call for your climate, I use 10w30 year round for mine.

I chose 10w30 M1 for my 4.6L F150 for year 'round Seattle driving (20F-95F temps), I think it would be fine for you too, after much reading I determined 10w30 M1 is superior to 5w30, and fine for my climate.

<blockquote>quote:<hr />Originally posted by MikeL: <strong> For a resonse to what someone said about thinner oils putting less stress on oil pumps freeing up more power. A few racers i knew used to do that, they claimed that running 0w-30 in there cars as opposed to 15-50 would yeild a gain of...

I would think a good xxw40 wt would fit the bill, if it were road racing I'd think the 50 wt would be the call, but the time on track and time spent at WOT in Auto-X are brief and the 40 wt should certainly be enough for the street.

I am also a fan of Delo, should be a fine break-in oil. I am a little more than sceptical about some of the HP claims made by synthetics, it seems the magazines see wonderfull gains while people I know that have done the same have not seen a significant difference (if any). I'm not discounting...

I would recomend Redline synthetic, it has made a big difference in shifting qaulity in every manual I've put it in. Ask our Redline site sponsor for the right fill, but I would guess Redline MTL would fit the bill.

I don't see 3000 mile intervals being much of a challenge for any premium oil, let alone a premium HDEO in a gas pot. The Rotella should do quite nicely I would think.

Yep, free is good, I just don't think its worth the $1.99 qt. they want at my local store. I would put my money on the $1.09 qt Chevron Supreme as being as good or better if I had to make that bet.

I think your throwing away unused oil if your changing at 2000 miles, 3000-5000 miles is more reasonable for a dino these days IMO. It's hard to beat a good dino like Chevron Supreme ($1.09 qt.) thats more than up to the task of 5000 mile intervals from an economic standpoint. There are still...