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Kinda citrus smelling to me.

COntact the online retailer. You might have to take a hit on the shipping, but heck, better than the whole $110.

I just opened the filter after the rx cleaning phase. Didn't think I would find anything, but at the bottom where there was some oil, you could see little flakes of black chips, kinda like the sparkles that kids sprinkle on glue. I'll try and take pics next weekend after I open up th epleats...

Can't wait to see how this oil performs on the Toyota 3.0 V6. 10k, hmmm, probably another 6-8 months? I'm in the process of rx'ing my engine before I use the RL and sampling. For summer time, would it be beneficial to use the RL 10w-30 you think?

I'm thinking of switching to Redline as well. I have the Toyota 3.0 V-6 gell engine. (Non- gelled hopefully, because of this I would think the higher flash point and its cleaning ability should be a good fit for this engine that seems to run hot and shear oil. Just not sure what I should...

Actually, I think its different for different makes. For my Honda, manual says to check with engine OFF <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="images/icons/shocked.gif" /> For my Toyota, manual say to check with engine running in Park after shifting through all the gears.

Actually, I have been gradually draining and filling my ATF with Redline D4, and sometimes I notice a few bubbles on the Dipstick as well. Not many and tiny little buggers. I haven't had any slips and I'm at 50K on a 1998 ES300.

I have the infamous v-6 as well. I think you should stay on the safe side and perform a used oil analysis at 7,500 first. If good, then move up. One thing though, I would perform an engine flush first though. This is what I am doing before extending my OCI.

awesome, can't wait to see your results!

Yup, I have had good experiences ordering through them.

Bring it to the recycling center.

$12 is great. I got 2 gallons for $15.50 /ea. I used about 5-5.5 qts. How long do you think the shelf life of the coolant is if I don't mix and store away?

<blockquote>quote:<hr />Originally posted by novadude: <strong> Why would I need to do a periodic Rx cleaning if I am using a high mileage oil? Since High Mileage oils already contain esters, wouldn;t these esters have the same effect as a 3oz maintenace dose of Rx added to regular dino...

<blockquote>quote:<hr />Originally posted by shortyb: <strong> Try the Akebono ACTs (Akebono Ceramic Technology) I have them on a heavy SUV and was quite surprised. They have alot of stopping power and feel, plus lots less dust. Olympic Auto Parts carries most fitments, especially Japanese apps...

So its a 50,000 mile fluid as opposed to 30,000? Any idea how long between changes you could go? I'm interested in finding out more abot it as well.

Yup, I guess its how the manufacturer calibrated their checks. Wonder which way is more accurate though. For the engine running, its sometimes hard to get a consistant level. Maybe its a more accurate reading than the engine off, but with the engine off, maybe it provides a more consistant...

Someone pointed something interesting to me. Now the Toyota ATF is checked with the engine idling but the Honda procedure is to check with the engine OFF. Makes me wonder does it matter as long as the car is up to operating temperature?

Actually, that was highway driving. But normally, when I did the fill and past checks, my baseline level was just above the low mark to begin with. This weekend is supposed to warm up to freezing (now doesn't that sound strange <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]"...

I did the same thing you did, I loosened the drain plug and let it drain out slowly until I though it was about right. Then checked and reched. I dunno, but it bothered me enough to drain the extra out. Did you drain and fill the differential as well?

Thanks all! <img border="0" alt="[Cheers!]" title="" src="/forums/graemlins/cheers.gif" /> Whew, Glad I didn't try to top it off <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="images/icons/grin.gif" />