Search results

you can't be Sam's scan & go it's the one reason I rarely go to Costco anymore. However, my local Sam's has a nasty policy of swapping date stickers on their batteries (or perhaps their supplier does it??). I found this out the hard way but there's really no recourse. Just reinforces the need...

@gathermewool nailed it. the OP doesn't drive the vehicles enough to keep the batteries sufficiently charged. ask me how I know this (3 new batteries in 4 yrs on a rarely driven brand new minivan). so yeah I now keep it on a charger whenever it's not being driven. and my other vehicles too...

I really hate to promote Chinese knock-offs, but you can't argue with performance and value... the absolute best charger/maintainer I've found is https://www.amazon.com/FOXSUR-Intelligent-Automatic-Maintainer-Batteries-Blue/dp/B088QCXNMY/ why do I like it? It holds 13.6V even with a modest load...

they are almost certainly the exact same battery. if you took a tester to the store they'd probably both measure 600cca +/-. the difference in advertised capacity and warranty is just marketing.

hmm. it'll probably last the winter, but I wouldn't trust that cca measurement. if you wanted another data point you could get the $15 100A load tester from HF https://www.harborfreight.com/100-amp-612v-battery-load-tester-61747.html you can't fool a real load test. either it holds voltage or it...

i've got 6 of these they work great https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804601639125.html

I suggest taking a voltmeter to the store and measuring voltage of the battery to ensure you get a fresh one. Don't buy it unless it's at least 12.6V or so (ok maybe 12.56 is acceptable) but nothing <12.5. Don't trust the date stickers they can change them (yes I've been burned by that...)

No it is not worth 2x. For the 24F Clarios versions the difference seems to be 1 plate per cell (6 vs 7) and warranty of course. Indeed the Value battery measured 695cca when new (585 rated) vs ~785cca (700 rated) for the Maxx (yes I measured them in the store on the rack before I purchased). so...

12.07v not normal. probably 12 months they switched stickers.

12.07v.... yikes. yeah that one was bad from the start.

lots of missing info. what size? rated cca? how fresh was it when you bought it? did you test it when new with the same tester? have you tested it since and have you noted a decline over time? does it still crank fast? I suspect your battery is perfectly fine and you're worried over nothing...

i'm not a chemist but as I understand it the H2SO4 reacts with the PbO2 cathode and Pb anode to create a charge difference between the two (voltage). That chemical reaction leaves a coating of PbSO4 on both the anode and cathode that inhibits the reaction (eg weakens the battery). When the...

I'll admit I know nothing about boat storage, but do you have shore power available? if so, then keep it on a maintenance charger and then who cares about the bilge pump or the CO alarm? here's what I recommend. a cheap offshore charger that holds 13.6V float even with a significant parasitic...

that battery is totally fine. especially if you put it on a charger often. whatever you do, don't turn it in for the core charge it's worth way more than that. but yeah $600??? there's walmarts in Toronto you can get one there for 200. or heck even amazon delivered for 250 probably.

not here to defend Exide... but a battery of unspecified age was connected to a load for a "few months" without charging and was then found to be sulfated. this has more to do with the treatment of the battery than the manufacturer. a regular charger/maintainer will not desulfate it, unless it...

you make your wife step over that to load the washer??? and you're still married???

what you need to do is test the fully charged battery after sitting overnight with no load (eg remove one of the cables, or remove it from the vehicle) *OR* test it when the vehicle has settled to steady state parasitic draw which for most vehicles is ~30mins after the car was last *touched*...

sorry now you're mixing apples & oranges.... how many days off charge was it when you measured 12.28? what was the load on the battery during that time?? and how does that compare to what you did last year?? these things matter and you didn't say. and how many days when your burb measured 12.7...

forgot about this thread... I'll say it again I think you're going about this the wrong way. You should test a full charged battery with no load on it. 12.28v tells me its either not fully charged or there's a load on it (car's ECU, etc). if you don't want to take it out of the vehicle then...

I'd still take the $55 value battery. the Maxx will not last 60% longer. as best as I can tell it has 16% more lead (7 plates vs 6). maybe it will last 16% longer, maybe not. but its not worth 60% more $$.