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Yeah I loosened the set screw in the collar, before turning it with the spanner wrench, it was not too hard to turn either but I had a 1/2 breaker bar.. Come to think of it, it might be possible... I did this in the dark..

So, this happened after I increased the preload on my coilovers a bit.. not sure why or how this would happen as I only lifted the truck 0.5" As you can see, the top hat seems as if it's cross threaded. It drives fine as far as I can tell, had a mechanic take a quick look at it and he said one...

A little bit made it that far. So far no issues. It's been about 10000 miles since I got muddy.

Thank you man. I hope so too. The guy who winched me out said she's a Ford bud she'll be fine. He was right about the transmission/diffs/transfer case so I'm hoping we are right about the engine too. This has not been a good week, truck aside, for me and I'm about at my wits end to say the...

It's dried now, but it's very fine when I felt it. It caked up thinly in the intake tube if that makes sense.

I've heard they use it in drilling mud too to lubricate bits. But I'm not sure it's entirely bentonite clay either. But it could be because it had to be fine enough to bypass the air filter somehow which I'm still at a loss for. The area I was in was a former bentonite mine so not sure if the...

I work at a coal mine too but it seems like those trucks don't last very long to me 😭 It's got a MAP sensor and it's a bit covered but no CEL. Already changed the air filter and oil changed yesterday before I even realized. If this was any truck I'd be more worried but I really do love this one...

I don't have it unfortunately anymore :( I'm very worried too. I'm not sure how I could even check. Compression test but that will only give me peace of mind for the cylinder walls. Will have to wait til I can do an UOA. For what it's worth, Ive sent it full throttle dozens of times since the...

It's the engine side. That's how the air box is on the F150s. The filter is sealed. My guess is that somehow the mud got through because it was wet and the bentonite clay is very fine. It's dry because it's been a week and so it's had a lot of time to dry but it definitely was mud.

:(

I already got all the fluids replaced for both front and rear diffs, transfer case, transmission fluid. The tech who did it said the fluids looked like they were in amazing condition and to keep on driving how I was driving it for what it's worth. Also I am the only one to blame and you are...

I think that's the plan. I screwed up real badly here either way. I'm astonished it still runs like a champ somehow. Hopefully the UOA would be able to detect bentonite clay which I think is what the material is, not sure if it's made of silica

It's a 23 f150 with the 3.5 Ecoboost

Given that it's fresh oil in there right now would the used oil analysis underestimate silica?

Vehicle: 23 F150 tremor 3.5 ecoboost Got stuck in a mud bog the other week, and didn't think it got my intake because when I popped the hood the air box inlet didn't look muddy at all. However, this week when I went to go change out the air filter, I saw all this mud had gotten past the filter...

I also recall reading a paper somewhere, that stated engine wear increased with torque/BMEP rather than engine speed. It was a paper from 2006 if I recall correctly.

You know what's interesting, for the Ford Broncos with the stick shift, the owners manual actually recommends upshifting at 3k rpm

1600 isn't too bad when cruising! In sport mode, my F150 will still do the same. However, I'm more so concerned with when driving around town, when the ECU will decide to simply lug around at 1000-1500 rpm under light to moderate accel. Or say at around 45 mph staying in 10th gear and simply...

Honestly, this is my first time hearing about the timing chain being an issue on the 2.7eb! I do know the earlier, first gen 3.5 had issues with timing chain stretch. And obviously the cam phasers on the second gen 3.5eb and the 5.4 triton. Although these were more so due to design defects more...

Absolutely agree. Similar to the reason why diesels last long. However you are still dealing with more complex parts, that being said I'm okay with replacing turbos or valvetrain components at higher mileage, as long as the internals and bottom end are good!