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Yes, going to WM is a miserable experience. If you just need a few things, then it is best just to go to AZ. The Wal-Martians (customers) and the employees that show up to work and were hired because they have a pulse can be a pretty bad deal. As for FRAM, I don't think the orange can is all...

I don't know. Yes, sludge and dirt came out of the engine on the STP change but the oil completely SETTLED out and was PERFECTLY CLEAR! The purpose of detergents is to keep sludge in suspension so it can be trapped by the filter or drained out with the old oil. That 5W40 STP sounds like it is...

I would be interested to see how the STP High Mileage stuff stands up after a recent experience. I bought some 10W40 for a push mower because it was what was available and figured this weight would be OK for a simple L-head mower engine. The mower started smoking and burning oil quite profusely...

I am a big fan of synthetic oils in any air-cooled device because of their greater tolerance to heat and thermal conductivity. I bled the system and came up about 8 ounces short on the fill so am guessing that I didn't get all the old fluid out or it is impossible to get it all out without...

I figured this would be fine and the price was right. Anyway, I will have it later today so might change my fluid tomorrow. Thanks, Conor

I have located 6 quarts of Kolpin 5W50 ATV oil for $2/quart and have it on its way. I am not familiar with this brand but it is 1/5 the price of any others out there. It looks like it is normally about $10/quart. Any opinions on this one? Conor

I have some Mobil 1 15W50 on hand for changing out a Hydro Gear transmission. These call for 15W50 or 20W50 so picked the synthetic. I kinda think this might be too thick on startup for the TT as the unit called for 10W30 from the factory and now calls for a 5W50. Either way, I will get the...

The manufacturer as well as others online. Here it is from the maker of these things: <a href="http://www.tufftorq.com/faq/" target="_blank">http://www.tufftorq.com/faq/</a>

I am restoring an old lawn tractor that has sat for a while. One of my plans is to change out the transmission fluid once I get the engine running right. It seems that a 5W50 synthetic is suggested. Anyone have a good suggestion for the best brand or variety of oil for this application?

I went to <a href="http://www.pennzoil.com/en_us/products/full-synthetic-motor-oils/pennzoil-platinum-euro.html" target="_blank">http://www.pennzoil.com/en_us/products/full-synthetic-motor-oils/pennzoil-platinum-euro.html</a> and read the specs. It says it is for "light duty diesel"...

It seems the Honda setup is more robust than the Briggs one when it comes to the nylon cams. I found a lot of issues with the nylon cams on Briggs like I experienced but not so much with Honda. I am sometimes amazed at the abuse small engines can withstand. It seems they either hold together...

I understand that the Honda nylon cams are pretty decent. How did I wear a Briggs one down to where it wouldn't run but the tappets looked pretty much pristine? Cast aluminum may be pretty strong but it still isn't as strong as steel. How come they put steel inserts and sleeves into aluminum...

I have to say I am kinda disgusted that many of the cheaper engines these days have gone to plastic cams and timing gears riding upon steel parts. It seems the plastic is destined to wear out before the metal and that both parts should be made of a durable material. That being said, I am sure...

OK, good to hear that the Rotella T6 is pretty much a good universal. I will stick with it unless I hear anything out of the ordinary. I picked up a bunch of trash picked equipment this weekend from a fall bulky trash pickup day. The mower had a dirty carb and I got it started in about 5...

I was curious if anyone has done a scientific analysis of oil in small engines. I have overhead valve as well as the old style flat head type engines. I have been running Rotella T6 in my riding mowers with the Kohler Command and they seem to do very well on this oil. I run them hard and...

The oils of today or a lot better than the oils of the past. Remember the 10W40 sludging problems. The base oil and additives are worlds ahead of just a few years ago. I think I will stick with Mobil 1 EP unless there is some reason not to which I am not seeing. If I was drag racing the...

The engine in question is a DOHC with variable valve timing. I had always thought you needed to stay pretty much right on the money as for oil viscosity with these but I guess not. It does have solid lifters which may play a role in there being a wide-range of specified oils depending on the...

Gotcha! Yes, it does seem to be a no-brainer that a 0W20 is thinner than a 5W30. The numbers reflect that but I can also clearly see it when pouring the new oil. Personally this weekend was the first time I had ever poured a 0W20 oil (M1 EP). I personally run the Mobil 1 0W40 European in all...

I run this oil in all my vehicles that call for 5W30 and it seems to work great. You might not want to go too long on the first change if you switch from a conventional oil to this. I have put this in some sludged up engines and it really helps clean them out. A couple didn't go 500 miles...

The engine in question is not DI so that might not be as much of an issue here. I personally have used the 0W40 grade in engines before and wonder if this wouldn't be a bad idea down the line. I am sure there would be a mileage hit though. I know that is the main reason all these thin oils are...