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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm</div><div class="ubbcode-body">How about Syntec 5W50? </div></div> hadnt noticed that option, i'll try it... i like the 0w40 in there. only thing thats weird is my oil pressure gauge flutters. its a...

back with some results. ive come to the conclusion my oil pressure at 3k may be low due to bearing clearences. they are .0015", stock is only about a half thou less but maybe thats the 5-15psi im looking for? i may end up shimming the pump. if i was to shim the pump pressure id have to...

if im trying to hit 70psi at 3k, and lets just assume my popoff is 85-90psi, wouldnt that lead you to believe im going to hit bypass not far after 3k? id think by 4500 I'd already be there. i dont know what the actual bypass pressure is though, i have the 3" thick FSM but it doesnt seem to...

unfortunately im not too sure what the pressure were at 3,000rpms (just at idle and WOT listed in 1st post). this was last year before i put too much thought into my oil choices. about to do an OC so im going to see what of the reccomendations i can find OTC (walmart/AZ/Advanced). i'll post...

OVERKILL maybe im perceiving a problem thats not there... but with 15wX (40 rotella dino) my motor was SUPER loud at cold start and idle in general, (10w30 was noticably quieter) and the pressures were so high i had to chang my driving behavior durring warm up driving. i also thought 90% of...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: threeputtpar</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> With a vacuum leak, wouldn't that cause a lean issue instead? </div></div> unless in boost, then it would cause a rich issue yeah id trust the sensor if the readings...

uhhhhh that was AWESOME, thank you OVERKILL! you speak my language, i totally follow and REALLY appreciate you taking the time to type that up for me. so i think i still have the same end goal then? (thinest oil that hits bypass the latest) but now have a better understanding of it. i have to...

huh... typically if you unplug the MAF while its running and nothing happens, your MAF is bad. Also MAF cars usually start in limp mode if started with the MAF unplugged. the fuel trim you are fighting is related to coolant temps, i dont think this is related to the function that stabelizes...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: OVERKILL</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Flow is flow. You have a positive displacement oil pump, unless the oil is being dumped out the bypass, it is seeing the same volume of oil. Pressure is resistance to flow...

well... i was, and am pretty partial to non synthetics. however now seeing that i can get sweet combos like 0w40 M1 i may have to switch to that or T6. cost is the main factor for using dino. i must also shamefully admit my rear main cover is leaking a tad and synthetic is going to make it...

now were talkin! thanks my normal temps are 220-240F street and 240-250F track... i usually just take a break at 250F and wait for 220F to come back around before my next run. i dont have to wait often though as you do wait in line. I know many track cars run up to 300F but i guess im just a...

thanks for the correction. so.... my oil... i definitely am not looking for a spoon feeding. If theres a better procedure for determining best oil for MY appliaction please point me that way.

but that is the exact opposite of what BOBs motor oil university teachings are instructing. Everything i read in the motor oil university specifically said to choose the oil that meets the factory reccomended pressures. if you recall, BOBs ferrari called for 75 psi at 7k and that is how he...

Hello, My factory service manual calls for: "60-70psi by 3,000 RPMs" this seems to be either really limiting my oil selection, or a crock of u know what written in a service manual 18 years ago. its 2.4L 4cyl DOHC Nissan making about 375whp and reving to 7500, track duty and hard street...