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I just pulled the housing apart and there was that plastic tube in there. Seems like it could be sealed better at the bottom so I may look at that to see what can be done.

I have had that off before and really didn't pay too close attention. I'll have to pull the top off and check on what's inside. If there isn't one there that's going to be fun coming up with one now.

I always check on the center stand on level ground. The plugs showed the electrode was white, the insulator was tan and the outside ring was black. No noticeable need for more throttle as both days were fairly calm. Mileage was consistent, but less than normal as I normally run no ethanol from a...

Surprised to find more posts. Evidently not getting notification. As an update, I took a 400 mile trip last week. 200 miles down with a day break and then 200 miles back. Ran 75 to 80 both ways. Checked the oil after going down and it was still full and I was pleasantly pleased. The oil check...

I still have never seen the pictures I posted. Can anyone tell me if they are there or not? Reading some other threads and noticed no pictures work for me. Is there some trick?

The Audis that the B-12 was used on were using way more oil than that and the B-12 resolved the issue. I didn't pay real close attention to how much oil was being used, but on a 300 mile ride I could easily add 1/2 qt. when I got back so what it's using now is quite a bit less after the B-12...

I'm going to give the B-12 a second try with the cylinders level. On the second application after rotating the motor I did notice it kind of went straight through the engine as I had the drain plug out. ATF would stay put and might be able to do it's work better. I'm glad those guys mentioned...

My issue is the oil burning due to stuck rings which has been the case since I bought the bike and it was dead stock at the time. The mods I have done have not caused the issue. The XS is known for center cyl. issues with many reports of people reringing them due to stuck rings. The stuck rings...

I know how to do a plug chop. Quit acting like you know everything. It's been on a dyno too. The mixture is fine and it didn't go drastically lean.

Just did a 200 mile ride and checked the oil when I got back. The ride was 95% highway and I put in around 4 oz. to bring it back up to full. Quite a bit less than the 100 mile mostly city streets mileage. Oil temp never got over 94c until I flogged it for a bit and hit 98c. Oil temps are much...

The mixture is fine and that's going by the plugs. The bike had the stock stuff on it when I bought it and it had the problem so what I have done to it didn't cause it.

A valve not closing would cause a miss or poor running, but I don't see how it would cause oil usage. The clearances were checked before I put it on the road and it runs great although it would probably run better with the compression up to snuff.

Going to try and get some riding in before it gets too cold, but this is the way I'm going to attempt the job. Thanks.

The oil separator is in place, but the stock hose just has a filter on the end. When I got the bike I put pods on and got rid of the stock airbag for several reasons.

This has been ongoing for several years since I got the bike on the road and found the low compression and oil usage. The HPL and the Yamaha ring treatment were the first things I used. After putting the Yoshimura multi meter on and seeing the too high oil temps I bought an oil cooler setup off...

Easy for you to say. I don't think it's monkey business when people have had great results with the Chemtool and stopped their oil usage.

Anyone know how the picture thing works. They loaded, but couldn't get them to appear. Nothing but a question mark.

I was thinking about hanging the front end higher with some tie downs to some hooks I screwed into the floor joists above. I kind of like the idea mentioned above of taking the rear wheel off and that would be more stable as it would rotate on the center stand and might just be enough to do it.

I just got the thing back together and inspected so I can ride it. I've got the manuals and have little desire to tear into the motor unless absolutely necessary. Been wondering if I could rotate the motor in the chassis to where I could get the cylinders straight up and down for better coverage...

I did run it for several thousand miles, but with the amount of oil it was using I'm not sure there was much HPL left. Never done a leak down test and I'm not sure if I could find the figures from the compression test, but the center cylinder was lower than it should have been. I did that test...