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At205 can help the seals sometimes.

@thetricky I'm sorry but I'm having trouble finding your post, you have a big history of posts and I just want to make sure I'm looking at the right one you're referring to.

That goes back to my point, there's a difference between maintaining cleanliness, via a reduction of carbon buildup each year and actually cleaning the engine via removal of carbon deposits that have already formed. Most of these oils are claiming that that they simply reduce the buildup and...

That would be a pretty bit miss if you had a before and after photo showing the cleaning difference and didn't mention it in marketing at all.

Can you link it?

Do you have any video proof or testimonials on here that can back that up? Like before and after photos?

Do not use any other grease than cv grease. I made the mistake of using marine grease for drive shaft cv and it lasted about 2000 miles before it heated up and blew up.

The older the better...oil ages like a fine wine. Jk

Depending on the formulation it might diminish the cleaning effects. From the sounds of it they are striking a careful balance between protection and cleaning. Unless there was some sort of neutral thickening agent you used. Using a 50 weight might require a ratio so high it dilutes the 5w30 too...

Or even liqui moly lifter additive? That's supposed to be like a less aggressive cleaner than their flush, something you can run the life of the oil not just 10 minutes at idle before an oil change.

It seems I mixed up the anoline value of "60 or higher" as the threshold for where carbon is removed and ester content of around 50% Which higher than what redline and motul will admit to for their oils being in the 40 percent range. As far as the official numbers we know they could be less but...

Sir, there is a giant "removes up to 100% of deposits" label on each bottle. Those are the percentages I'm referring to.

The thing/problem im seeing with people bringing up euro oil spec or whatever other oil specs, is that it seems you guys are merging two terms or outcomes into one. Just because an oil can reduce deposit build up, does not mean they can remove deposits. These are two different standards. What...

It's not the first time I've seen Australian retailers scalping and jacking up the price of everything in demand. I remember back when battlefield 2 came out, it was like double the price in Australia adjusted for exchange rate.

@The_Sheriff I've had the bike since new when I bought it 2007. It's mainly used yamalube semi synthetic 10w40. It then was ran on Mobil 1 synthetic And just recently I switched to valvoline full synthetic 4 stroke motorcycle oil. Like I said, the oil change intervals have been somewhat...

Yeah, I'm not against trying it. Have you looked into yamalube ring free?

Yes it has been sitting for awhile. A few oil changes were also over due. But in general there is no real issue other than some slight chain rattle starting to form at certain temperatures and conditions. I would like to do a cleaning before switching to a high ester motul 7100 or redline. I...

The clutch is brand new Kevlar aftermarket clutch. Yamalube shows 6 ppm for molybdenum. Where as most car oils will show 300 or 600 ppm. So that's what I assume is one of the primary friction modifiers. Yes 10w40 restore and protect is available in Australia. I would prefer nothing lighter...

I'm not against hpl, but today is the first time someone has mentioned them specifically for cleaning. I usually get about a month of research and compare and contrasting, before I decide on anything. Yes as my other post mentions, I'm willing to ship some r&p 10w40 from Australia if the clutch...

5w40? Not 15w40?