Doing a little more exploring and I've found that the 998 Rotax Spyders, which I have and new to me this season, are prone to clutch slippage. I keep finding conflicting info on the friction modifiers in the current formulation of T6. My understanding is that the moly and boron levels represent...
The Rotax engines are new to me. My Harley cycles have putted along the highway at 2500-3000 rpm... the rotax engine lives in the 4-5k powerband... so a much higher rev engine by design.They take some getting used to, as those RPMs would be screaming on a Harley and I would be hunting for a new...
I know that the T6 5w/40 does not carry the SN labeling. I did, however, check this week with a Shell engineer to make sure that the formulation of this product did not change from prior years when it did carry the SN labeling. Changes at API several years ago, caused Shell not to pursue...
Will try the 15w40 in the future... just following the weight called for in the manual. That may be dated info too, as Rotax are also engines BRP uses in snowmobiles that are run at lower outdoor temps. Thanks for the advice on the oil. I just wanted to be sure the newer oil was not lacking...
If you are doubting yourself, best advice is to listen. Maybe get a convertible and that way she will ride along with you... and you can still enjoy wind therapy to a certain extent. My best to you.
I have an older Can Am Spyder with a Rotax engine, 998. The manual calls for sg/sh/sj/sl ... but says no sm. Many have said that Rotella T6 in the weight above works well for them. The manual was authored 10 years ago. Can I run the t6 in the bike.? It is jaso MA and MA2 for use in wet clutches...