Recent content by WagonWheel

Have you checked the alternator? I’ve had one make a whine with acceleration which turned out to be the voltage regulator was on its way out.

Yes. Keep copies of receipts as you state. I print the records to a PDF annually as well.

Good to know. To be clear, if it lacked an adbv, I would have put it back on the shelf.

The rules only apply to CA residents who purchase new non-50 state emissions vehicles. New is defined as < 7500mi (and 2 yrs in other pubs) The OP’s label is a MY 2015, so likely is excluded from this Rule and thus valid for CA residents to register it in CA. If you are not a CA resident, buy...

I recently bought a TG7317 from WM and it was silicone. It’s used in a bottom mount position (Honda J35), so probably doesn’t matter.

LOL. And with an extra long wrench to overcrank the drain bolt.

No clue on JL, but the Splish ‘n Splash where our Pilot was last serviced before we bought it used a Mighty TecSelect filter.

Wow, I won’t complain about the $8,100 for the Amana 5ton single stage (ASX16) 16 SEER / 100k btu furnace (80%) I just had installed.

I received an invoice from a Valvoline IOC somewhere on the west coast that was misdirected to my email address. It was for a ‘20 Elantra: $92 for the synth oil change , $20 for the COMPLETE FUEL TREATMENT minus $10 coupon: $110 OTD. I’d say you got a deal at the JL!

I’m of the same mindset. What size AC unit do you have? Did you top off with R22 or the replacement ‘bluon’? If only $200, guessing it’s not that bad. It’s basically what I did until the compressor was shot. I’m getting a 2nd unit replaced next week (I have 3). It’s only 2.5t but only ~20%...

I just had a 5 ton Amana single stage A/c and 80% furnace installed. The consistent feedback I get from those in the industry is more complex = higher cost = lower long term reliability/ higher maintenance $$. That and don’t expect to get more than 15 yrs out of today’s units regardless of...

Here in TX, I’m ecstatic if I get 4 yrs out of a Costco interstate batt. The heat does a number on them. Unless you are testing them or doing a charge / rest test, there’s little to no warning when they go. I just acquired a Schumacher BT-100 load tester, we’ll see how that goes.

Does it have a Maintenance Minder? If so, what is the typical mileage / % oil life when you normally change? At least with ICE-only Honda’s, driving mostly highway miles extends the drain interval. That makes sense. I personally avoid any DIY maintenance over the summer months given how hot it...

I just changed the oil for the first time on my daughter’s ‘17 Legacy 2.5i with ~ 101k mi. There was no pooling in the filter housing when I removed the o/f. However, there was a bit of a mess from the oil draining from the drain plug and flowing back into the plastic shield. I had it on front...

Was it confirmed to be a partial or total hydraulic failure? Someone commented over at the AH: