It doesn’t need to have sky-high zddp with the addition of moly and boron is what he is saying. They all work together. This MOAR ZINC deal needs to die already!
I personally don’t want stuck rings and nasty ring grooves so from that perspective no, all oils hitting a spec are not the same. We have seen it on this site where an engine running on “top tier” full synthetic starts shedding carbon gunk when exposed to HPL or Valvoline Restore and Protect.
You will be fine at 6k miles, that is by no means pushing it. Look at the recent 23,310 mile Subaru UOA, he is doing fine. I do 10k and my outback is fine, granted it’s the port injected 2.5. As others have said, run it to the factory OCI, do a UOA, adjust from there. That should give you plenty...
I’m inclined to say this is a Subaru thing. My reports always have higher silicon and like you, have tried different filters and checked the intake multiple times.
If that’s a long change for you and it is working then that is excellent. Valvoline Restore and Protect is however, not a long change oil nor is it marketed as such.
I’ve noticed a lot of folks on here treat it like a temporary engine cleaner instead of a fully formulated oil, using it for a little bit then moving on. If I wasn’t into long OCI’s I would certainly be running this oil full time.
Exactly…so run an MA oil. We’re only talking a couple quarts here, you aren’t filling a cat d10 with oil. If you can afford the bikes yet want to skimp on a couple bucks for oil then perhaps you are in the wrong hobby?
Best quality out there at the moment it would seem. STP XL and Carquest premium are the same as well so anyone should be able to find at least one of those where they live.