Recent content by Soma07

Thanks, I knew it was a longshot but I figured I'd throw it out anyways.

Thanks guys. I got Terry's interpretation the other day and he is thinks the lead might be coming from the main bearings. He was thinking they're probably worn pretty good (based of lack of Sn in the oil) allowing the crank to move around a little more than it should. I'm also having some oil...

Car: 93 Trans Am, 350ci LT1, 6 speed manual Oil: M1 SS 10w-30 Under hard acceleration (WOT in either 1st or 2nd) the oil pressure in my car will drop from ~60psi down to about 45 until I let off. Not terribly low but I don't think its right either. The strange thing is I can rev the car in...

I replaced that long ago Its so common I think "torn intake elbow" must be a factory option on these cars. Anyways I was running the factory airbox for that interval with an OEM paper filter. Oddly enough the silicon was only 1ppm less compared to my last analysis with an K&N style KIPK...

A previous analysis of this car can be found here: http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=000284#000000 Any comments? I am slightly concerned with the lead as its gone up a bit since my last analysis. The TBN also looks pretty low? But in reality I did beat...

Yes, great race. People will say what they will about MS but it takes a huge pair to just sit there when your car is on fire while its being refueled. Then he just takes off like nothing happened and wins the race. Amazing composure... Edit: I agree Webber has been very impressive this season...

I used it in my T56 for a year and half with no problems, even on a very high mileage car (approaching 170k). This past summer I switched to Honda ATF following the advice of some others who liked it. As long as the weather stays above ~65F its great, however in cold weather it shifts noticably...

Well somepeople say they can do all eight without removing anything. I say they must also have the forearms of an 8yr old girl Honestly I think most people make it out to be more of a problem that it really is. Besides I'll gladly put up with a 2hr plug change once a year (at the most) for...

So thats like $10 US right The GT has the 2.5L V6 correct? I can see where changing the back plugs on transverse mounted (FWD) V6 would be a PITA. I dont see how a set of plugs and wires is worth $400 tho... What's even worse is that my dad (ASE tech) told me to reach the back plugs on some...

IMO it'll be fine. Sorry, but I dont buy the "It'll make it run rich" theory (if you can even call it that). Why? Closed loop operation The computer is going to maintain 14.7:1 as long as the coolant gets warm enough for it to enter closed loop (which it will) and the O2 sensors are reading...

Which car are you refering to? I dont recall anyone saying that...

If it broke off above the block then there is little chance if it sliding in to the pan. There is a lip on the tube that only lets it slide in so far. Sorry to ask the obvious but you did remove the bolt holding the dipstick tube to the block correct? Its a small 3/8" bolt about 2-3" from the...

8hrs?!? Did you have two broken arms or something? j/k I dont think its that bad... If you remove the alternator, starter and Y-pipe you can get them all pretty easy. My first time took me and a buddy 3hrs to do the plugs and wires on stock manifolds. Of course I can do them all pretty quick...

Patman, You did pull the alternator to get to #2 right? Otherwise I dont see how its possible... Removing that stupid lower alternator bracket off the exhaust manifold stud might help too. Also instead of using a ratchet put the socket on the plug by hand and then use an open end wrench on the...

I'm not much of a drag racer but as far as I can tell they hold up about as well as the Auburn clutch style differentials used 93-98. But of course that isnt saying much since the rear end (usually the pinion gear) is the first thing to go on these cars when you start launching hard with sticky...