Recent content by SL8R

Originally Posted By: 1990LTD Are there any reasons not to use this oil? In what application? 10w30 is essentially an antiquated designation/specification. You need to provide additional information about the vehicle in which you intend to use the oil, such as: what is the OEM recommended...

Originally Posted By: fdcg27 If we can't use UOAs as an oil comparison tool and we can't use them as a tool to measure wear, then what can we use them for? Read the link.

All that this analysis illustrates/highlights is the lack of understanding that is so pervasive about what can and cannot be concluded from a cheap single pass Blackstone UOA. No TBN No Oxidation No trending to show how viscosity changed LOL! I take back my first comment; this thread also...

There is some great info in this thread that may help you better understand UOA results for ester based oils (like redline). http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1583780

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM Originally Posted By: mva Both oils look great. If it was my car, I would run the BMW 5W30 to take advantage of the slightly better fuel economy that you should get with a thinner oil. I would also run much longer oil change interval - 8,000 miles would still be...

Originally Posted By: Finklejag I want to stay using a Ester based oil with a low Noack to help fight valve deposits. Originally Posted By: CATERHAM As A_Harman suggested RL 5W-30 would be lighter than the RL 5W-40 but if you want to go with a true 30wt oil that's as light as possible on...

Originally Posted By: RamFan Ever since the Castrol and Mobil incident with the BBB deciding in favor of Castrol it seems that ideologies have triumphed over common sense. The current system calls Group I, II, and II+ as conventional, any combination of Group III and Group I, II, or II+ as...

You will notice no difference from a one-time 750:1 mix of 2 cycle oil.

Originally Posted By: addyguy I don't know if you've heard of it, but try a 'water decarb' to get rid of the carbon on the pistons - it seems to work better than other methods. Un hook a PCV or brake booster line and very carefully suck a quart of water so into a warm engine, and then run the...

What does your owner's manual say? As I recall, the Hyundai recommended OCI is 7500 miles (12000 km) or 6 months, and they recommend Quaker State.

LOL @ someone with over 2000 posts asking this question. What would you say is the most valuable thing you've learned in your time here?

I recently came across this UOA for a 2004 Volvo S60R on a volvo forum that I frequent (swedespeed), and I thought I would post it up here for comments. Here's a link to the forum thread where I found the UOA results: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread....fter-6000-miles This was the...

Originally Posted By: yaris0128 I used to use RP 5w30 loyally but it just got way to expensive. Id run it between 7.5 and 10k oci's. When RP was $6.xx a quart Id buy it over anything else but now that its $8.xx I just cant afford that. And I'm sure that filling the sump of that 5.4L can do some...

Originally Posted By: demarpaint Originally Posted By: Trajan And yet, I've used it in winter in cars that sit outside year round. With none of the drama, looking like a pot of stew, or any other silly nonsense. It thickening to the point where it can't be shaken or poured doesn't concern...

This is the most useless thread I've come across in a while. I'm not sure that's an accomplishment, but it is notable.