Recent content by SF0059

Originally Posted By: bigj_16 Is the Honda a DI engine? No, it isn't. But this particular J-Series V6 is known for being hard on oil, along with the Nissan VQ. But the issue with those isn't fuel dilution.

I'm no doubt one of the folks you saw, changing the Mazda's oil at around 5k each time. Contrary to the knee-jerk answers you have received so far, I have a few well thought out reasons why I am sticking to the "severe service" schedule. It is not because of fear, because I was doing 12k mi...

More basic Casio GShocks for digital. Swatch Sistem 51 series Seiko 5 or basic quartz If you can find one on sale, Citizen. When it comes to a watches, there are a few good options at the $50 limit. However, my preference would be to save up a little more for something better. My personal...

On a separate note apart from FD and what it all means, I emailed Liqui-Moly just for kicks to see what they had to say about using Ceratec in new engines, specifically SkyActiv. Granted, they are not unbiased, but the information is still worth posting. I will say that the most impressive thing...

This has to be the most normal UOA with the most controversy in quiet a while! For the poster who asked; yes it is a Skyactiv. For those that think I'm crazy for using Ceratec, you can continue to think that. That being said, the predominant ingredient is molybdenum. As I pointed out, Mazda's...

Thanks for the feedback, all. I am personally happy with this UOA as well as the last one. Let's answer a few questions! Additive in a new car: Mazda's OEM oil has a metric ton of molybdenum in it. So, if anything I am getting closer to the OEM spec. I am also using this as an experiment to see...

Castrol Syntec Black Bottle. 150ml of Ceratec (let the additive bashing begin!). Replaced with M1 AFE. I'll probably stick with that as long as I can find it cheap.

Originally Posted By: ArcticDriver Quick repair of a flat. I know this one....Alex, What is a spare tire? Hahaha, well said. If I get a flat on the way to work I don't want to get dirty, so the torque wrench, impact wrench and mechanics gloves are key. Then the spare comes into the picture!

Put together your own. It might be a little more expensive, but you can pick and choose what you want. My bag has a combo of Knipex pliers, Tekton screwdrivers, Milwaukee M12 Fuel impact wrench, old USA made Craftsman half inch socket set, HF torque wrench, Husky mechanics gloves, etc. It is...

8 mil black nitrile when working with chemicals, solvents, etc. Mechanics gloves for everything else. I grew up not using gloves. I got tired of dirty hands/nails and then I had kids. I just don't want to be holding them with hands that had used chemicals on them 15 minutes ago.

It is a good time to be a dealership in Texas, I would imagine.

For your first problem, I can almost guarantee that the rattle is your upper motor mount. They are fluid filled and they will split and spill the fluid. Look on the wheel well underneath the mount to see if there is staining from the leaking fluid. The symptoms sound very much like the mount...

Looks awesome! I plan on doing that to the 6's wheels eventually. You can't beat the durability of powder coating!

CQuartz DLux Plastic & Wheel Coating is the only trim treatment that I have ever used that both restores the look and protects long term as it is a coating, not a dressing.

All of what you are seeing can be attributed to engine break-in. Iron from the steel parts, copper from your turbo intercoolers, silicon from sealants. There is nothing abnormal or worth worrying about. The numbers will come down over time. If you are going to take a UOA at the next oil change...