I rotate (DIY) when I do an OCI (DIY) which is every 10K. I also give the "inside" of the aluminum wheels a good cleaning with a wheel cleaner and a coat of paint sealant.
One thing that irks me is that my $18K Mazda wheels were given a dynamic balance and my $37K Dodge are on the outide rim...
Originally Posted By: Triple_Se7en
You can buy 5 quart jugs of M-1 at Walmart for around $20. Most stores sell M-1 filters for $9.99.
I believe the offer if for HM...I don't recall what the price of 5 quart jub at WM was, but it was more than $20 IIRC. I think it was $30/5 quart so as the OP...
Originally Posted By: rshaw125
Try PP next time it has some of the best UOAs in 5W20 form. 10,000 miles on PP, Mobil 1 and Amsoil would be an interesting comparison.
I've got too much ASM on the shelf for that...I have nothing against PP but I like the idea of ASM and potentialy longer drains...
Originally Posted By: ConfederateTyrant
I think you can easily get 12,000 miles out of the oil in this engine, if not longer.
That sounds good.
Actually my goal is 10K in both cars with ASM.
I'm pleased since, as Pablo noted, half of this engines life has been with this OCI. Also, I have a...
Originally Posted By: Pablo
Mostly just break in metals. Almost half the engine's life has been with this oil.
Your viscosity numbers are transposed. Zinc should have one "0"?
Oil and engine in fine shape. What is factory recommended OCI?
Pablo,
Thanks for the reply...yes, Zinc should have...
Here are the results from the first UOA on my 2006 Dodge Charger with a 5.7 Hemi. It'm my wifes daily driver that saw almost 20K in it's first 10-11 months. Primarily highway with a Fredericksburg, VA to Buffalo, NY round trip just before the sample.
History of vehicle:
Bought new off dealer...
Originally Posted By: BradC
Quote:
3. The soft brass causes it to become loose (Fumoto warns not to over tighten as you will damage it) and leak. I've had to tighten it over a 5k OCI a few times.
That's enough reason for me not to get one.
I only do two oil changes a year so I'll just stick...
Quote:
If you have not reached full operating temp after 5 mins let alone 25 mins of highway driving you need to replace your thermostat as it has failed open preventing your engine from properly heating up.
Are you talking water operating temp? Then yes...5 mins should be plenty.
If you are...
Buster,
I have the Hemi in question...the 5.7. the 6.1 Hemi doesn't use 5-20. I think it uses 5-40...I may be mistaken....but I know it doesn't use 5-20. As it's been explained to me, 5-20 is required so the MDS works correctly in the 5.7's. The 6.1's are not equiped with MDS. I've not heard...
My 2006 Hemi 5.7 has a 7 quart sump (the Mazda is 4.25). When I change with a 30 minute drain I can only get about 6.5 in. I'm switching to a longer Wix filter next time. I'm hoping to eek in 7.5 quarts....we'll see....
My hope is to get 10K OCI's on both of the cars in my sig. They see between...
Before you get a lawyer, let them (Mazda) know that you will be contacting Purolator to let them know that their filter (PUROLATOR) is the cause of the failure (Per Mazda - Purolator would love to hear that). Simply let Purolator know that Mazda is claiming their filter (PUROLATOR) is the reason...
Ooops...forgot.
For those that think that's his coolant temp, no...it's the oil temp. Many of the LX models (Charger, 300, Magnum) have an EVIC which displays many engine/fuel gauges.
John,
I have the same engine. When I get to operating temp on the highway it's at 222*F all day long (for now...summer here in VA). It takes a good 20 minutes to get there.
You have no issue.
My engine and oil is in my sig....
I have the same engine in my Mazda3. The twisting filter is a common problem discussed over at mazda3forums.com It happened to me when I used PureOne's. I now use Wix and no more twisting. I know one poster said he sent his twisted filter back to Purolator b/c he was concerned. They evaluated it...