Recent content by Pavlov

I live in Australia. The Rockauto prices for parts like cam belts, idlers, spark plugs are about a quarter of the local prices. Shipping doubles the cost, FedEx is fast but expensive. Still get the parts at half the local price though. Heavy items like brake components are not worth importing...

If the oil light goes out quickly and there are no engine rattles, starting with an empty filter is ok. If the engine is really old and worn, and tends to rattle for 20 seconds when cranked over after an oil/filter change do what has been described before - disable fuel or spark, and crank until...

Scrape the areas of disintegrating clear with a plastic scraper, even the edges. Avoid sandpaper of any kind, the clear will be much harder than the colour coat and one slip up will see you go straight through the colour to the primer. 2 or 3 coats of acrylic clear, from a spray can. Edges...

Originally Posted By: ram_man Originally Posted By: Brybo86 boiling at 180? you sure it has coolant in it and not just water? It may have just water but water stilk doesnt boil at 180...... Nope, but all you need is a hotspot or compression leak to create steam, which will pressurise the...

Generally alternators can be dismantled and overhauled. Some easily, some a lot harder. Before you rip into one, make sure you can get components like diode packs (bunch of diodes on heat sinks), bearings, brushes. I prefer to do them myself, but if parts aren't available I go for a recon one...

If you can redline the engine in any of the higher gears you can assume the exhaust is working correctly. Easy, if potentially illegal test.

Dayco, Gates, Goodyear cam and ancillary belts - I'd use any of them without a worry. Gates made all the belts for the Australian built Mitsubishi Magna and 380 models, Gates-Unitta is the supplier for Japanese made Mitsubisis. Very few reported belt failures on these models, despite the...

What are other people's experience with this engine? Some engines have valve heads recede into the valve seats, hence leading to clearances close up and possible burnt valves, while others wear on the contact between the rocker and valve stem, leading to increased clearances. I'd do them just to...

My Diamante workshop manual tells me the only accurate test is to disconnect the ball joint, put the nut back on, and use a torque wrench to see what force is needed to get the shaft turning in the body of the joint. Replaced some that were below spec, and it cured a steering wobble and wander.

Nah, they are just trying to drum up business. Happens a lot, it's a bit like "Do you want fries with that?" You are supposed to go "Yeah, go ahead then." If you have any interest in cars at all, you'd take the car home and check for yourself whatever Mr Mechanic says needs doing so...

Sounds like the brakes have had a hard life over the last few months. I would go through the whole system, checking calipers, pads, discs and repair anything that is not up to scratch, then bleed. BUT if he doesn't want to give you the time with the car to fix it, he is on his own and needs to...