If it was me, I wouldn't re-use and wouldn't use a cork gasket. Been burned on that on my own vehicles, currently with a leaking cork gasket even after following directions. I plan to take the pan off and super clean it then slap it back on with some Permatex The Right Stuff and only ever change...
I'm coming from the world of pushrod OHV 5w30 engines and am trying to figure out a good oil for a 2016 Toyota Tacoma with the 2GR-FKS engine that has variable valve timing and all kinds of goodies. I'm not sure what kind of additive packs in what oils would be good for all the things going on...
Hello all. I'm trying to do some research on putting some extra flood lights on a 2003 Ford Taurus. I've got an idea on how to mount them but I'm not sure of what lights to get. I've been eyeballing the Hella Optilux 1450 as a halfway decent yet affordable light. Basically, I want something that...
Hey all, I got in on a good deal for a bunch of filters and ended up paying $3.85 for a WIX (NAPA Gold) fuel filter for my 1994 Ford Explorer (parts vehicle). With the lack of maintenance it's seen I figured I would find a factory original fuel filter on it and sure enough, I did. The Explorer...
Originally Posted By: hatt
Actually 9mm and .45 are pretty similar in energy.
While I don't have a reloading book to compare loads that way, just looking at Hornady's website, you can see that a .45 in the Critical Defense variety has around 25% more energy at the muzzle. The 9mm can compensate...
9mm is more widely available, cheaper to shoot and has better trajectories, especially when you look at the +P loads. It doesn't compare to the energy of a .45 but I wouldn't want a +P 9mm round coming at me. It's more of what you comfortably and reliably shoot. If you're jumpy with a .45 then...
I haven't gotten a chance to play with the crud in the filter yet but I did verify that the filter was made in August of 2010. 5 years old, yikes! Really glad it's got new oil & filter on it now.
Originally Posted By: Ga129
Is it possible that the shiny pieces were just pieces from the filter housing when you cut it?
I'm not sure why I didn't think of that. I still have the filter, maybe I'll go run a magnet over it.
Hey guys. I recently bought a 1994 Ford Explorer as a non-running parts vehicle. I've since done a little work to get it running, just to see what I have. Naturally, I did an oil change on it since I know nothing about it's history. It looked like the oil filter had been on there a little while...
2 things to note after I installed this filter;
- The filter is super effective. I no longer see the Bars Stop Leak floating in the coolant. I'm glad to have it out, except not long after installing the filter, it also removed the particles clogging the lower intake gasket coolant passage leak...
Originally Posted By: Trav
Edit: +1 on checking the exhaust manifolds for a leak. Look for broken studs at the head.
How would I go about this with everything assembled? Put a short ratchet on each nut and see if it turns easily?
Pretty sure. There's several lifters that tick, the noise comes and goes for some. It was quite a while back but the previous owner also did this same repair which quieted the engine down completely. Then it was driven hard with oil changes lacking by a teenager.
Hello all. I've posted a few questions about my vehicle before but this one's a bit more specific. It's a 1991 Ford Explorer with the 4.0 OHV Cologne engine. Notorious engine for top end valvetrain noise due to lack of lubrication. Long story short, I went in to replace the lower intake gasket...
Finally got it installed after going through several configurations and figuring out how best to route the lines. I did set it up as a bypass filter, not in-line with the heater core. Also used 2 ball valves that I can turn off in case something goes wrong with the filter housing or heater core...