Just went through this with my 2004 Highlander...
I was told by a local tech that the CAT was borderline, so the computer would not complete the test... .so I ran a couple of bottles of Berrymans B-12 in the Gas... within two tanks, and alot of driving, (Las Vegas and back) the emissions...
I think I have a problem with my alternator...
I ran a test this morning. I disconnected the battery and checked all of the connections at the alt itself and then reconnected the battery. I started the car and watched the voltage via scangauge, it was 14.2...then I turned on the ac, headlights...
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SHOZ</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Did you ever look at the O2 voltages while driving? </div></div>
No, Sure haven't. I replaced both at the same time with Denso OEM about 3-4 years ago...
I'm assuming this...
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: nthach</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The monitor that gives you the most grief on a Toyota is the EVAP monitor(and partly why the 2nd gen Prius was introduced with a new EVAP module including a leak-down pump that made...
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wag123</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The drive cycle that The Nuke posted is a good generic drive cycle, but it would be better to locate, download, and print out a readiness drive cycle <span style="font-weight...
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Vikas</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The O2 sensor is plugged back in, right? But you should always have a cheaper reader which can give you I/M readiness monitors and Mode $6 data given how cheap those things are...
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: eljefino</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Has it been hot? Over 95'F or so and the things might not run.
Toyota (camry) with that motor got a firmware update for the cat, to make the monitor less sensitive.
A spark...
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: mk378</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Unplug a sensor to make it throw a code deliberately. Then plug the sensor back in and make sure that stored code is remembered when you start and stop several times. If the ECU is...
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: JHZR2</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Can not ready be given due to a front/rear sensor mismatch? If it’s a lazy sensor it’s one thing. If it’s a bad converter that’s another. Your voltage seems low. If it’s a...
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: chainblu</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Does your code reader have the ability to clear the codes? I may be wrong, but I don't think pulling the breaker clears the code, like it used to. </div></div>
Yes, it does...
Need some advice here -
2004 Toyota Highlander 4 cyl with 2AZ-FE
200k + mileage
First year of not passing a CA smog check due to 'Not Ready' for Catalyst.
Smog Tech said to drive it for a while, then come back. Well I drove it to Vegas and back, total of 500+ miles added to the ODO, still...
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 2strokeNorthstar</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Yes, thank you CA voters for the $3.50 gal. fuel! Hopefully with our Gov. gone in November some of this nonsense will be fixed. Probably not. </div></div>
Oh please let...
I agree with the SB6141 modem. For the price, you cannot beat the Asus AC5300 router. I am a recent Linksys fan convert to Asus routers. I bought two of the TM-AC1900 routers (TMobile) and converted them to RT-AC68Us.
I've used napa gold before, but for the price, I've just stayed with OEM filers - I got a case of 90915-YZZF1(Made in Thailand) filters for my Highlander for $35 on Ebay - made them about $3.50 a piece.