New to me 14 Camry SE (2.5l) bought from Carvana in early March. Decided to change the oil at 85k to start a good baseline.
Out: Unknown
In: Mobil 1 HM 0w20
Toyota OEM Filter
Just went through this with my 2004 Highlander...
I was told by a local tech that the CAT was borderline, so the computer would not complete the test... .so I ran a couple of bottles of Berrymans B-12 in the Gas... within two tanks, and alot of driving, (Las Vegas and back) the emissions...
I think I have a problem with my alternator...
I ran a test this morning. I disconnected the battery and checked all of the connections at the alt itself and then reconnected the battery. I started the car and watched the voltage via scangauge, it was 14.2...then I turned on the ac, headlights...
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
Did you ever look at the O2 voltages while driving?
No, Sure haven't. I replaced both at the same time with Denso OEM about 3-4 years ago...
I'm assuming this requires a special tool to accomplish?
Originally Posted By: nthach
The monitor that gives you the most grief on a Toyota is the EVAP monitor(and partly why the 2nd gen Prius was introduced with a new EVAP module including a leak-down pump that made its way into other Toyotas). The CAT and HO2S monitors are constantly running but...
Originally Posted By: wag123
The drive cycle that The Nuke posted is a good generic drive cycle, but it would be better to locate, download, and print out a readiness drive cycle specific to your 2004 Highlander and follow it TO THE LETTER. Many drive cycles have some minor differences that, if...
Originally Posted By: Vikas
The O2 sensor is plugged back in, right? But you should always have a cheaper reader which can give you I/M readiness monitors and Mode $6 data given how cheap those things are these days.
Yes, I plugged it back in, before I even left home. I did notice however...
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Has it been hot? Over 95'F or so and the things might not run.
Toyota (camry) with that motor got a firmware update for the cat, to make the monitor less sensitive.
A spark plug anti-fouler on the rear o2 might just help things along if it's on the borderline and...
Originally Posted By: mk378
Unplug a sensor to make it throw a code deliberately. Then plug the sensor back in and make sure that stored code is remembered when you start and stop several times. If the ECU is not getting backup power, it will go to no codes not ready every time you turn the key...
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Can not ready be given due to a front/rear sensor mismatch? If it’s a lazy sensor it’s one thing. If it’s a bad converter that’s another. Your voltage seems low. If it’s a computer demanding that you drive a certain number of cycles (not miles) before ready, perhaps...
Originally Posted By: chainblu
Does your code reader have the ability to clear the codes? I may be wrong, but I don't think pulling the breaker clears the code, like it used to.
Yes, it does... no codes to clear though - If I scan it says NO CODES - NOT READY. I may invest in a new reader that...
Need some advice here -
2004 Toyota Highlander 4 cyl with 2AZ-FE
200k + mileage
First year of not passing a CA smog check due to 'Not Ready' for Catalyst.
Smog Tech said to drive it for a while, then come back. Well I drove it to Vegas and back, total of 500+ miles added to the ODO, still...
Originally Posted By: 2strokeNorthstar
Yes, thank you CA voters for the $3.50 gal. fuel! Hopefully with our Gov. gone in November some of this nonsense will be fixed. Probably not.
Oh please let it be so... It costs so much to own vehicles in this state!
I agree with the SB6141 modem. For the price, you cannot beat the Asus AC5300 router. I am a recent Linksys fan convert to Asus routers. I bought two of the TM-AC1900 routers (TMobile) and converted them to RT-AC68Us.