Recent content by mkiv808

I have SVG in my Land Rover. Yeah, might do that. Not really worth the time and effort to do fluid exchange with FCP for that fluid.

FCP is 2 miles from my house so the fluid exchange is a no brainer 😉

Suppose Driven DT40 5w40 could be another option? Isn’t even suggested for MB certification, but I can’t imagine that 30 year old requirement is terribly finicky or sophisticated.

I guess for ATF could either go Fuchs or Redline D4. Liqui Moly doesn’t seem worth it at almost double the cost of these.

I will be picking up a M119 SL500 soon. This is from the 96-98 era with the M119 V8, but the newer transmission. It has under 60k miles and has had a lot a decent amount of oil and fluid changes in its history, but wasn’t driven a ton in the last few years. I’d like to source as much from FCP...

I’d go heavier on track, at least 5w40

No dipstick on mine but yes, the tube makes it easy to extract oil. Ingenium have that tube?

Keep running Valvoline Restore and Protect. Nothing wrong with that appearance.

Dirty thin oil will definitely cause chains to stretch sooner. Anyone that maintains a bicycle knows this truth.

Still gets their cost of ownership low for marketing purposes. Until you need a timing chain job at 90k. I change oil every 4k on my full size RR. I also went up in grade to 0w30.

Analog is the best. PS above I meant safety in pre 1980s cars, which is pretty horrific by modern standards

A lack of safety in the old cars doesn’t help either

Yep, no problem. I love my CTEKs. They run all winter. They have an AGM mode too.

90s and 2000s cars continue to go up in value. Some 80s too. Older cars are not appreciating as much or are depreciating. This is because the people with money buy what they’re nostalgic about growing up around. As boomers age out and sell their cars or pass, there’s just not as much...

I have 6 year old sealed Motul RBF 600 that I was just going to assume shouldn’t be used.