Recent content by mercuryblues

Update: SUCCESS!!!! Had the chance to try again and got the switch in. The rod did ratchet back as it was supposed to and now the cruise is now working great! Thanks again everybody for your input!

Thanks for your help everyone! I'll try and see if I can get the new one to go in. And Colt, I just checked the number on the old one and it is the 1F1T-9F924-AA. So that could make things more interesting. Again, I greatly appreciate the help everyone.

Originally Posted By: JimPghPA If you can't find it at a dealer, give Stoystown auto wreckers in Stoystown Pennsylvania a call. You can find them via a simple Google search. They are huge, and can UPS the part to you. I appreciate that, Jim. Thanks!

Originally Posted By: Colt45ws You might try a dealer, and bring your VIN. They should be able to look up the one that is supposed to work. Looks like that will be the next step. Thanks Colt!

Originally Posted By: Colt45ws You have to find the one with the right length. When I swapped the adjustable pedals into my CVPI from my LX, I initally used the LX CC switch. I can't remember if it was longer or shorter, but it caused an engine code and CC was inop. It has something to do with...

Originally Posted By: Merkava_4 You mean the cruise control actually pushes on the accelerator pedal ? Mine pushes on the throttle body lever. This is actually the deactivation switch that is controlled by the brake pedal.

Originally Posted By: CT8 Is the spring broken on the old swx The spring still feels good to me. That's as far out as the plunger will go, even if I try to pull it.

Good one for the Panther guys. Anyway, I think I made a mistake trying to install this, versus getting the wrong part. Let me try to explain... A few months ago, I ordered a new cruise control deactivation switch from Rock Auto for my '01 Grand Marquis (Motorcraft p/n SW-5957, Ford p/n...

I had a look at that the other day at a local Walmart. Personally, I don't think it's worth paying $50 for a 5-quart jug to go 20,000 miles, whereas you can get the EP 15,000 mile version for about $28 and change. I would also have to say that most any synthetic oil would be good for a year...

That's a very attractive price! However, with the Mobil 1 $12 rebates going on right now and the report that Wal Mart also has the M1 High-Mileage 5-qt jugs on rollback at $22.88 (makes it $10.88 after rebate), that sounds better to me. Problem is... M1 High Mileage doesn't come in 0w20...

Hello all, Been a long time since I last posted. I was wondering if you could make a suggestion for my folks 2013 Mazda 6 (purchased mid-summer of 2012 and has the 2.5 liter 4-cyl). It is garaged and has only has a little over 18k total miles on it, so that averages to 6k miles/year. I know...

Scary stat on that page... police officers killed by gunfire up 65% this year to 43.

With my car, there was no "seat of the pants" difference that I felt. However, the fuel mileage may have gone up a tick (they only claim a gain of 2% anyway), but I like the idea of a lighter oil at startup (esp. in the winter). My oil consumption may have gone up a slight bit, but I attribute...

Sadly, I found out about this a short time ago... http://www.smh.com.au/sport/motorsport/sir-jack-brabham-dead-20140519-zrgoj.html RIP Sir Jack.

Very annoying situation today. While at Easter dinner at my mother's today, I tried replacing a couple of interior blubs on her '98 Toyota Avalon. The dome light worked out fine, but I had fitment issues with the glove box light as they seemed to be way too loose and wouldn't stay lit (even when...