Recent content by mechtech

The cracks and damage are usually on the INSIDE. If you take them off to check them thouroughly, you might as well replace them.

There is a gearbox and spring assembly to lube, and the runners/linkage to grease [NOT the ones for the sides of the window]. Common sense, and lubing everything that you see, will work for years.

They are for straightening out clamp marks, and making the same size pipe fit over one another. They are not for major swedging, but you may get lucky with thin, soft, pipe. An adaptor works OK. You can have a piece welded to the inlet of the muffler for cheap at a muffler shop, then put it on...

Your mechanic friend states that the cars he deals with ALWAYS get the 7500 mile treatment. So, how does he have valid data for the 3,000 mile cars? He is full of baloney.

A straight through type muffler will have less restriction than a chambered type. You will get better power and gas mileage. No miracles, but it WILL breathe freer. At the end of the pipe, you are not really tuning, but removing a cork. Yes, it will be louder, but usually only a problem when...

How about entering gasoline into the equation? It is a much larger cost than your oil. Can we prove where the gas from the pump comes from? I think we should simply use what works the best for us.

I have seen the new ads. [this month's Golf Digest has one] for the new P.P.. It has molecules that will re-connect when sheared, and will thin out when needed for flow. It seems from the Pennzopil rep. that the new stuff isn't actually out on the market, yet. I'll wait to buy some, and check...

I've had nozzles get particulate matter on them. Distilled water would have been best. Also, when the water droplets [still a liquid, not a gas] are heated in the C.C., they turn to gas, and expand at about 1/1600 ratio. When the water is added in the correct amounts, power is produced, along...

There is a thermostat and radiator in the coolant system. There is no thermostat or radiator in the oil system. Oil runs much hotter in summer than winter.

It seems aything more than about $100.00 is a waste of money. Quality doesn't go up after that.

After being a mechanic for years, and owning older BMWs, I've come to the conclusion that their wiring is marginal. So, clean all the power and ground cable ends [not just the battery]. I'd put in a larger diameter cable for the main ground and alt. power lead. Make sure that your fuses are...

It seems XS650 has a good product to recommend. Whatever you do, do it now, as there will be no oil or pock marks to hurt the final finish. Even outdoor paint or stain is a viable finish [gloss or semi gloss]. A good concrete finish is very nice, on it's own.

oilyriser - The obvious conclusion is that your magnet attracts iron particulate matter, and it isn't present in the oil for examination.

M1 isn't the bad guy. Pre existing engine conditions are the bad guys.

In today's fragile world, it is good to have a solid point of reference for our lives. Man Laws provide us with such an anchor. Now, when we agree, we know how to clink our beer bottles together in a manly fashion. [The high five replacement is still pending, though.]