Recent content by Kompressor

I have a resonable amount of experience with big blocks in hot-boats, I have found 40wt works great in milder big blocks and 50wt works great for higher HP/rpm applications. I have tried 20w50 and noted it didn't maintain nearly the oil pressure as 40wt after a hard run (this was in a mild 460...

My last truck was '91 Chev with the 350 TBI, best truck I've ever owned, sold it with almost 200K miles, still ran great and burned no oil. A much better engine than the tritan V8 in my new Ford.

I am not trying to put anyone's advice down, but heres some food for thought- It would take 40 hours to travel 3000 miles going 75 mph, now I consider that the car doing that would be at 2800 rpms under a light load, my boat on the other hand generally operates at 3500-5000 rpm's under a heavy...

Tirerack's consumer reports are an excellent place to learn how well a particular tire has worked for others. I tried a set of Firestone Firehawk SZ50 EP's on my last 6 speed Z/28 based on those reviews, man what a tire, glued to the road wet or dry. There's nothing like rolling on good rubber.

I think using a machanical oil gauge is your best indicator of what is the best viscosity, I have tried several weight's in my jetboat and determined SAE 40 performs best (less pressure drop on an extended high rpm run), I saw a dramatic pressure drop even with 20w50, which tells me the oil is...

These are great, they have the closed top version (as pictured), and also an open top version that is Yellow in color, I have both.

I've only had my F150 long enough to have changed the oil once, but here's what I found. Getting to the filter was gravy once the front skid plate is removed, it does leak on the diff when removing filter, next time I plan on laying a couple disposable shop towels over the diff.

I am really happy with the Mity-Vac, works great for me. The sequence I use is start at the brake with the longest line, then to the 2nd longest and so forth. I also think pushing the master cylinder piston past its normal operating range can cause damage. Anyone have more info on this...

The heads can be repaired with heli-coils, here is a company that makes an application specific kit. http://www.timesert.com/sprksert.html

Sorry to hear about your Dad. I am not familiar with your climate, but I use M1 10w30 all year in my F150, it doesn't usually get much colder than 20F here, I don't see how you could go wrong with 5w30 in winter and 10w30 for summer, Mobil 1 or Amsoil synth are both good choices (based on...

I recently sold a '91 Chev Z/71 truck that I logged 197K miles on, all with various dino oils changed at around 4k miles, the engine was still very clean inside and still ran great. I would agree that sludge is more a result of mechanical problems or design issues than the fault of the oil...

Stabbin, I wouldn't worry about using M1 in a vehicle with your mileage, I'm using M1 10w30 in my 87K mile F150 with no problems. I also think using 5w30 for winter and 10w30 for summer is a good call for your climate, I use 10w30 year round for mine.

I chose 10w30 M1 for my 4.6L F150 for year 'round Seattle driving (20F-95F temps), I think it would be fine for you too, after much reading I determined 10w30 M1 is superior to 5w30, and fine for my climate.

Thats an excellent point, I also know a couple drag racers that use light synthetic oils, another trick is leaving out several qts of oil for less crank windage (such as 7 qts in a 10qt sump). In regard to the 5-20, I would agree that the manufacturers are after fuel economy more so than long...

I would think a good xxw40 wt would fit the bill, if it were road racing I'd think the 50 wt would be the call, but the time on track and time spent at WOT in Auto-X are brief and the 40 wt should certainly be enough for the street.