To my knowledge, no one is actively working on hacking/jailbreaking the digital gauge cluster in the 86 community for Gen 2 at the moment. I'm sure it could be done given that it's fully digital and they both use the same ECU.
I recently purchased the same product but one thing that had me wondering was, wouldn't pumping out the oil have a negative effect in terms of not being able to pump out all the potential residue (metals, etc) at the bottom of the oil pan?
As far as I know, oil specification involves viscosity, classification (API), standards (ACEA, SAE), OEM approvals, additives, and type of oil (synthetic or conventional).
In a very casual sense, it's generally agreeable for the most part that the SS line is a higher spec than the OE line given that it has a better base oil and more additives?
So using that logic, would SS not be spec'd higher than Euro?
All given the fact that the use-case for the oil would...
What I don't understand is how SS is spec'd higher than Euro, but a lot of you guys mention how Euro might sometimes be on-par if not better? What would be better in the case of a Subaru motor (FA24)? SS or Euro 5w30?
Wasn't sure if this was in reply to me but it seems like tight clearances in the FA24 motor recommend 0w30 or 5w30 when driving spiritedly. I think some built motors run heavier oils though with non-OE clearances.
Yes definitely. I only use 5w30 in my car.
So how advantageous would AMSOIL Signature Series 5w30 be with a mixed driving style of street/track vs the oils that you mentioned (Mobil1, Pennz)?
Yes I too run the Motul 300 & 300 LS for diff and trans. But I have ran Amsoil's variant for diff and transmission fluid before, and it seems like the Amsoil is much more smoother especially when shifting in cold weather.
Interesting how you guys are saying race oil is not very applicable to the street. Where I come from, most track and street drivers use race oil (300v) to preserve their motor's longevity and performance.