OP, Maybe try one of those no-splash pads to put in your pan?
Haven't tried a 2.0L but I can't get an extractor tube into the pan through the dipstick tube with my 6.2L.
I briefly owned a 00 Sierra 4.8L, bought used with ~35k miles. Found out it had piston slap that winter. Tried a few different oil brands and grades but nothing helped. Local mechanic said it might run for +100k...or it might not. Traded it the next summer at the same dealership that sold it.
I stopped using QS in the late 90s when they had the clear bottles and you could see significant color variations in the quart bottles on the shelf. Don't know if it would have made a difference, but it was not a good look.
That style of bypass valve/leaf spring assembly is installed backwards in that filter. Prongs should face the bottom of the can. The element is not sealed at all and would allow unfiltered oil to pass continuously.
******** 91+ from your people. Like 91+? How are you getting on with at least 100 octane? You are federally required to produce 93 octane per operator manuals. What deception are you liable for if you don’t currently meet your own requirements. You owe me violent requirements. At least 2/3...
What filter are you using? After changing a 2ish year old filter with very low miles on the filter/oil this summer, I would recommend avoiding filters that use fiber end caps. Fiber had started coming apart at that age.
Idemitsu Four-wheelers Gasoline (IFG)
Idemitsu Four-wheelers Dual (IFD)
Idemitsu Riders Gasoline (IRG)
Idemitsu IFG- and IFD-series engine oils will be available in three categories: Flagship (IFG7/IFD7 series), High Premium (IFG5 series), and Premium (IFG3/IFD3 series)
Idemitsu IRG series...
Further details from the owner: Less than 3000 miles in the last 2yrs. Severely short tripped. It probably hasn’t gotten to normal operating temp in a while.
On close inspection, the globular looking stuff on the ends look like the fiber end caps are just disintegrating.