Recent content by grumpyoldman

Here is a web page that lists over a hundred brake fluids. If you sort by the "Wet Boil" column, you'll find which ones are the best/worst when the fluid inevitably absorbs water. https://www.lelandwest.com/brake-fluid-comparison-chart.cfm?startRow=1&SF=4&ST=2 The best ones are for racing...

kschachn and jayg, thanks for the correction.

veryHeavy, although the clutch and brake systems both use "brake fluid", they are separate systems. The fluid from one doesn't mix with the fluid from the other. As others have said, replace the clutch system fluid. The guess is that the fluid has absorbed water ("hygroscopic") and turned your...

Originally Posted By: Kira I use an open style catch pan with spout (pictured earlier in this thread). The ones with that "flat surface" (pictured later in this thread) seem ridiculous to me. The rectangular pan isn't as flat as it looks in the picture. The surface is a bit of an inverted...

Originally Posted By: NH73 Ok, everybody this is what I have. The Flo-tool I am talking about I didn't spend $70 on, just $10, this is it: http://www.sears.com/hopkins-oil-drain-p...mp;gclsrc=aw.ds Its the drain pan. I have a 2003 Chevy Blazer and 2004 Ford Explorer SportTrac. I also have...

A million miles, that's awesome. But TEN engines?!

Originally Posted By: 1JZ_E46 Wow. Your wear metals are a third of what they were with M1 0W-40. Very impressive. I wold stick with the 5W-30 EDGE. Those are fantastic results. I would also stick with the 10k OCI. Edit: just saw you switched to the LL-01 variant. I'm sure it will work just as...

edyvw, I did put in the exact oil you mentioned, Castrol 0W40 LL-01, right after this report. CharlieBauer, the Castrol 5W30 is not LL01 approved. But this discussion has me thinking. Like you (CharlieB) said earlier, the wear metals are all significantly lower using the non LL-01 oil, which...

Originally Posted By: CharlieBauer 3 times less wear on unapproved, fake synthetic, EPA and CAFE mandated thin API oil, compared to Euro manufacturer branded approved full of protective goodness thick Euro oil. You were obvously not driving the vehicle how it was designed to be driven! Sad...

How about electric? A few friends have Nissan Leafs and love them. I drove one once and was very impressed: no noise, no vibration. The silence felt really luxurious. I only drove it a few miles, but I was told they feel like that even at highway speed. They're running a deal locally where you...

Originally Posted By: Bluestream I wouldn't be going 25K but 12K is reasonable. Does this engine have a timing chain or belt? I would go back to the LL-01 just for peace of mind I think it's a chain (or chains), part of the BMW VANOS system (which I don't understand). I did indeed go back to...

A few questions from a non-racer: - Has your car been raced for almost all its 20,000 miles? - How long does an MX-5 race motor typically last between rebuilds? How many times can it be rebuilt before you have to junk it? - Do guys normally change oil after every two race weekends? I've heard...

2008 BMW 328xi, Castrol EDGE 5W30 (full synthetic but not BMW LL-01 approved) 10,400 mi on oil & filter (Wix) Previous OCI was about 13,000 mi (Mobil1 0W40 Euro formula, BMW filter). Before that 10,500 mi (BMW/Castrol 5W30). Before that I didn't own the car. Oils were LL-01 approved. My driving...

Originally Posted By: bioburner No one here for a plate of Rocky Mountain Oysters? I've had them. Breaded and deep fried, they tasted like everything else that's deep fried. Didn't like or dislike them.

I don't know the answer to the OP's question, but here are a few data points from my experience: - I drove an '83 Honda Civic for 11 years, 135k miles, & never changed the coolant. Engine ran beautifully the whole time; coolant temperature gauge always went to the same level. - I drove a '98...