Recent content by GMAX

Not "can" but choose to "do"

These https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XVWWDH8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My Subaru Forester has some longer-than-usual caps that screw all the way down to the valve stem body. Regular caps won't do that, so I had to order them.

The horror of capital letters. Maybe some people have a seizure when they see them.

That is your opinion. What has happened for you to come to that conclusion?

Ah, yes...good question; good to see a thinking man on the forum.

One thing the Chinese have not copied, yet, the genuine Rolex has a free-sprung balance wheel with timing screws on the balance and no regulator pin. the Chinese have not copied that.

Oh my, I guess one excuse is as good as another when it comes to the need to change oil.:)

See reply #3

I think your advice is spot on. Start with the simplest potential cause and work from there.

I just had one replaced on a 2007 Honda Accord due to extreme sagging.

Yes, you can drain cold, measure the amount drained, and fill it with the same amount. If you are going to do this 2 or 3 times, always drain cold and follow the procedure for the first drain. This is what I do on my Volvo and it works just fine. The first change is the most important to get...

If it has factory fill, Drain it cold-measure amount-put same amount back in. No need to measure temp which you have to do if you drain it hot.

I had a noise primarily just afer starting that was coming from that area on my 2001 corolla, and it turned out to be the belt tensioner.

Right, but I was responding to "But what if the factory spec'ed lubricant and service intervals were inadequate?" So, since there are no perfect oils and they continue to improve, one could say that "all factory spec'ed oils and service intervals are inadequate", and that is proved by the...