Recent content by GimpyHSHS

I don't fear hot oil, I fear overheated oil lol. Oils do break down or at least become much less protective at some point. I may be wrong in what you're doing with yours, but I don't really think that any amount of street driving is anywhere close to wheel-to-wheel racing for fourteen hours...

Lower temperature "floor". Thermostats start opening gradually at their specified temperature. We want to be fully open and flowing at 195* and stay below 200* period. Allowing the thermostat to open earlier will run the engine cooler at all times. Yes, debris is a concern. But I would...

Hello folks! My family is working on a new project car. I am hoping to pick the collective brain of BITOG. The car is a 2011 Mustang with a 3.7l V6. We will be doing endurance racing, up to 14 hours at a time. Ford originally used 5W-20 in these engines. We are planning to run 15W-50. This is...

I did the 5W-30. I did buy a receiver hitch for the truck, but it isn't on yet. I am brave, I have towed a LOT with bumper hitches in the past, but this one is particularly wimpy looking, so I'm not gonna risk it. My buddy is probably letting me borrow his 2500 Chevy Van that's a little newer...

It does have waaay more get-up than it did before. At the end of the day, it's still a 300 I6, of course. I'm never gonna waste money putting it on a dyno lol, so I couldn't tell you what it makes or anything. I had the option of going the 460 route, but decided against it. Now I have a 351w...

Do you strenuously object, though?

Since I am on limited time, I think I will just use a 5qt jug of STP 5W-30 and dump in one of my left-over 1qt bottles of Valvoline VR-1 20w-50 for a little more viscosity and the additional ZDDP. Does anyone object to that idea?

I have probably driven it about 500 miles since the 30 minute camshaft break in. Mainly around town and things. It certainly isn't ideal. I will probably drive it some this weekend and to and from work every day next week. It still needs some things done to it. I would like to get the new rear...

How long have you had the truck/how many miles are on it? Have you had any issues with running the engine that high for extended periods of time? I'd probably be ok running a little lower speed if I had to, but I do want to get there eventually lol.

I guess I will revisit for an oil recommendation for my truck now, after getting the 427w oil squared away. I have a 1983 Ford F-100 with a 300 Inline 6. The engine was rebuilt last year, just a mostly standard rebuild, .030" overbore, .010/.010" on the crank, mild Comp 268 hydraulic flat tappet...

That's not what he was doing at all. He was saying that there distinct similarities between the two designs. Heads, block, COP, intake manifold, etc. It is designed quite similarly to the LS engine. No one that's actually into cars calls all OHV engines "LSs". That's not a thing, and if it is...

She's filled with Mobil 1 0W-40 and finally crackling! :cool:

Yes, but that means retrofitting ALL the accessories...which I wasn't prepared to do. I had already bought most of them by that point lol. I can't recall what the most major dealbreaker was for me...I did look into it. It wasn't TOO big a deal for me to convert it over, I don't really drive...

That is probably smart lol. I still have V Belts on my truck, and I have had nothing but problems. Unfortunately, it's a 300 I6, and the options on serpentine setups are limited without a lot more work. Here's that one I had built last year.

Thanks! This engine is going in my 1995 Mustang. The serpentine setup is stock for that engine. The driver side bracket is the stock 5.0l one from the car and the alternator bracket is a Speed Doctor Racing one. I think it looks killer as opposed to the factory one that had the alternator right...