Recent content by Eskimo

Originally Posted by Audios Rotella T5 or T6 would work, switching to one of these on the GL once this run is over. And that Mystik oil looks really really strong, Id normally scoff at a name like that, but the syn blend looked like it held better than the M1 and T6. Probably going to look for...

VW/Audi/Porsche 3.0 V6 Tdi - I've been running M1 ESP 5w-30 ever since I bought it at 40k miles - now at 78k, I removed the EGR/DPF/SCR/Urea, and figured I could either saved some $$ on oil changes (been spending $9/quart x 8) and/or find something that can protect even better. The oil temp...

Just a little update - I ran the 300v 10-40 all last year with a 2 weekend OCI, and the engine was torn down and refreshed over the winter. All the surfaces (bearings, cam lobes, etc.) looked perfect. I apologize that I didn't get to the shop in enough time to photograph the old parts before he...

Originally Posted By: Analyzer It really boils down to weather or not you want to run a premium synthetic or weather you're okay with shorter OCI's of a petroleum based motorcycle oil like Shell Rotella. I was curious though, you will have already broken in the motor prior to your initial race...

Lots of excellent feedback here, even if no one can seem to agree on a certain oil! (From what I've found, the Redline oil is +/- $1 for a gallon vs. the Motul, so they're both a wash as far as cost goes in my case) One thing for sure, since I already have the 300V in the bike - Do the UOA...

Originally Posted By: KernelK I hope they aren't giving you +/- .005 on your rod bearings. I said it wasn't a specific example..

KernelK - I didn't build the engine, KWS Motorsports did, so I don't know what their exact numbers are, and they're pretty tight-lipped about much of what they do. From what I gather, their tolerances are typical of what any high-end engine builder would do. This isn't a specific example, but...

sunruh- This is my first year racing a 600, which spins the crank a helluvalot faster than my stock 1000 v-twin racebike did, with higher specific hp/L, and this one has more exacting tolerances. It's also 5k to replace if I lunch it in the middle of the season, so I'd like to do what I can to...

Anyway.. Larry, I am following your logic on viscosity. I'm not baiting when I ask this, but why not a 0w-20 then? (my guess is the additives packages and base stocks used for them are not desirable for this application, not because of anything inherent with the viscosity?)

Originally Posted By: sunruh eskimo, if you are so concerned with hp from oil loss, explain why you are not using Maxima Extra4 0w10 ? I just bought the bike, and it currently has the motul in it, as delivered from the builder. That's why I'm not running anything else. I came here seeking...

Clevy - I don't want to lose horsepower to a conventional oil though. The 600 class is VERY tight, and if I'm willing to pay $22 a gallon for gas that gives me 5hp, (and burn 10 gallons a weekend) I can't afford to lose 2hp because I wanted to save $40 on oil, if that makes sense..

Originally Posted By: BusyLittleShop A great alternative would be to run a 30 weight 100% synthetic of your choice and pick up 2 to 3 more HP... Such as? Going thinner doesn't concern you for wear/protection?

I recently picked up a Yamaha R6 which has a "supersport" build engine in it. Basically it's a blueprinted & balanced factory build with a lot of head work. Engine redlines at 15,500-16,000rpm. The builder recommends Motul 300V 10w-40 and a K&N KN-204 filter. However, as much as they know about...

We had a '05 Baja Turbo 5MT (Which is identical to the forester XT).. Ran Rotella T6 5w-40 and the NAPA/Wix filter with excellent results. Oil consumption was still there but reduced, and when the heads were popped at 155k, the shop reported that the engine looked great inside.

The engine seems a little louder (more mechanical noise) with the M1 over the T6 at idle, but it didn't blow up.. I may have noticed the clutch not clamping down as fast as I'd expect on a few quick gear changes, but it may just be time for the annual "cleaning of the steels" in the clutch...