Recent content by ejes

The basic Valvoline High Mileage Full Synthetic with Maxlife.

I change mine at 100k unless the engine gives me a reason to do it sooner. Reasoning is because you can't really tell if they are good or bad. Don't trust the rattle test. Some designs rattle when they are good, and some don't just as some rattle when they are bad and some don't. The designs...

I agree on the bag boxes. For the meager price difference on the brand I use, the inconvenience combined with what gets spilled or left in the bag, I have went back to jugs.

Get the Michelin Defender LTX M/S2 version. Perfect tire for what you need. You will be surprised by them. They are actually quite good at light off road work (like pasture, logging roads, low maintenance roads, etc) as well as in the snow. I've ran Coopers 3 different times with 3 different...

Agree. If you are going to go to all that trouble, OEM.

This is correct. Water and brake fluid are miscible fluids and are subject to the laws of diffusion. Every time you apply the brake, it aids diffusion.

Factorytuned is correct on the spelling on gasket. That is counterfeit. Even the spacing is off between words and Honda puts distinct periods at the end of each of those sentences. Look up this filter on OEM sights and you'll see it doesn't match. Will it work? Possibly.

My Tundra that I did recently had teflon tape on the transfer case plugs and gaskets (some crush some not) on the diff plugs. I just replicated what was done at the factory.

I don't think you will be able to tell the difference performance-wise. The Michelins will last a tad bit longer, but not a whole lot in that model. I'm not as optimistic as TomYoung above. I'd say 15-20% longer. I think you'll have to decide if that little extra is worth $200. One thing I would...

This is America and you should do what you want with your things. However, if it were my car and I wanted to squeeze every bit of life out of it, I would stick with 5k intervals due to the short tripping and consistent long idling alone. Consider that along with the low cost of only 4.4 quarts...

I would bet you dollars to donuts if you were to ask one of the mechanics at a Nissan dealer what they use, they'll tell you 75w-90 synthetic in both diffs and transfer case. Toyota specs straight 75W in their transfer case, but most Toyota techs will tell you they use 75w-90 all the way around...

Use it. I used to use it in my 2004 Ram 1500 5.7 for 3k oil changes intervals for a lot of years. Worked just fine.

No, they brought it to him because of rodent damage their other shop couldn't fix. This guy keeps towing it from quite a ways away to this shop because the other shop can't handle it. I'm pretty sure the other shop does the general maintenance.

Don't hold me to this, but I think the 99-09 Tundra had the 2UZ-FE which was Iron. Then the 4.6 and 5.7 UR engines were aluminum.

Maybe I missed it somewhere, but where does he say that he was doing the maintenance or care on these vehicles that are now failing? Maybe I'm not understanding what you are saying. The vehicle he is specifically using as an example in the video sounds like it was being maintained at another...