Recent content by DGXR

Severe gear is good stuff for sure. But in normal circumstances it may be overkill. Basically if the lube is changed on some kind of regular basis and the unit is not abused, you might not know the difference from a "regular" product like Valvoline or Supertech gear lube. I think the main...

I already own my "forever vehicle." Nearly 20 years old, runs perfect, all original except water pump and AC condenser, no rust :)(y)

The only octane boosters worth the money are products like Racing Fuel Concentrate and VP Octanium. Those STP and 104+ (small plastic bottle) products are not very effective. Otherwise you're better off paying at the pump for legitimately higher octane fuel... even though it seems like a lot...

I use the maintenance dose, which is around 1 oz per 5 gallons of fuel. "1/3 - 1/6 oz per gallon of fuel" works out around the same. "1 bottle (15 oz) to 50-100 gallons of fuel" also falls into that same range. But 1 oz per 5 gallons is just easier for my brain to work with.

Although the CEL went out, the code should still be stored as a history (H) code. Pull the code and post it here.

Clutch wear happens only when your foot is on the clutch pedal, pressing or releasing or resting your foot on it (ugh). Otherwise the plates are engaged and there is no movement of the friction parts. About deceleration, for city driving (45 MPH or less) I get off the accelerator and let engine...

Yes I've always maintained the spare tire and jack in all my vehicles, to a functional level but not pristine condition level. Generally I include full-size spares in normal tire rotations and slightly overinflate the spare so it will still have enough pressure sitting 8-10 months until the...

You were told something is possibly the issue, but was a proper diagnosis ever performed? I agree with Donald, a simple borescope inspection is pretty easy on most vehicles and clearly shows the presence of any carbon buildup. You can't see the ring pack or landings, but this would be a better...

Yeah I always knew there was a good reason why Hyundai/Kia vehicles are so cheap compared to most other brands. If you want a vehicle that is (mostly) trouble free long-term, it probably won't be a Hyundai or Kia... spend a little more and get a lot better.

Feelings are not facts. Use what the manufacturer recommends for your operating conditions, or at least something very close... 5w40 to 0w20 is a big change.

Fuelly says my average is 23.6 MPG over 139,081 miles tracked, pretty good overall. But who wants to drive a stock 4-cylinder automatic pickup truck? Most people are too interested in looking cool and buy giant noisy 4wd beasts for their stressful mall crawling LOL 🤣

Did you notice any difference in any way? Benefits? Please describe your experience... hopefully more than, "We changed the oil and it runs fine." 🤣 Thanks

Sacramento. 25F is the coldest winter night I have seen in the last few years... pretty rare, but it does happen. More typical winter nights are 30-35F but in the context of this conversation I don't think it matters all that much.

I have used 10w30 and 10w40 in engines that spec 5w30, with no ill effects that I could tell. These engines continued to run strong for a very long time. They had at least 150k miles at the time of viscosity change. Temps here range 25F winter to 110F summer. I believe 10w oils are OK for...

Whoa, that cylinder head looks very busy.