Recent content by Dborch41

1987 BMW K-75S. Purchased new in '86 and rode it all over the country until I parked it for good around 1995 with about 13K miles because "life happens". Kids are now grown and on their own so it's time to see if I can get it running again. Even though it was kept in a garage it doesn't seem to...

I got this quite a few years ago and it works quite well. I have a 20 gallon air compressor which is just barely enough to work the thing, but I do have to wait a few times for the tank to pump back up if I'm doing the entire car. It also helps to put a few wraps of teflon tape around the...

Yes I would change the oil, and if you have access to ethanol-free gas get a tankful of that as well. If the octane needs to be higher there are additives for that. Be sure to run the engine a bit to purge all the old gas out of the fuel system.

I wouldn't mind it if I had a lift, but I'm too old to be tackling that flat on my back in the driveway.

I watched a video on how to access the speed sensors, once they got to "now we'll remove the valve body" I tapped out. When it comes to automatic transmissionmission valve bodies...here there be monsters.

That's probably why the first shop I called, also the highest-rated one, declined to even look at it. I might be limited to going to the dealer again, too bad this time it's going to be out of my pocket.

I'm considering taking the plunge on paying to have the transmission "bulletproofed". I've called one local shop so far, they're going to get back to me with an estimate. I'll call some others as well, there are quite a few in town. I know there are bigger cities not too far away with more...

A bit farther south actually, Corpus to be exact. Of course in Texas there's no such thing as "a bit". I've had friends from New England come down to visit and couldn't wrap their heads around the idea of driving all day and still being in the same state. I sincerely appreciate the consideration.

Here's what I have. Not exactly professional grade, but marginally better than your average parts store code reader. I actually got this unit because it was the only consumer-grade scanner that could access Nissan ABS systems (please excuse the literary redundancy). I had a Frontier with a...

I found that video during my research, unfortunately I don't have the equipment (or the knowledge to be perfectly honest) for that level of troubleshooting. There was a time when I could, comprehension-wise, but not so much anymore. Long story...

There's a good chance the sealed bearing in the clutch pulley is bad, a cheap mechanic's stethoscope might be helpful here but be careful around all those moving parts. There are replacement clutches on Ebay and a YouTube search will likely have a video on how to remove it, but if you're going...

I've always just hooked all three hoses up, opened both manifold valves and let it evacuate for a couple of hours. Then I'll close the manifold valves, shut off the pump then monitor the low side gauge for awhile to check for a loss of vacuum. If then needle holds then there shouldn't be any...

Yeah I know, what are the odds? It's the usual 5.3/8L90E combination, the truck has already been to the dealer twice for a new torque converter then a bad shift solenoid. Fortunately those were all under warranty, but 6 years and 32K miles later...no such luck. The issue is DTC P176B, which is...

I wouldn't do that with a crush washer. Those need a couple of turns past finger tight just to deform, then you need to apply the actual sealing torque. My Nissan is like that, I used to use a torque wrench but eventually just developed a "feel" for it with a regular ratchet.

I use the Valvoline squeeze bags every 30K on my 2014 Frontier, it's the only way to go. The old fluid never really gets very dark, but that interval seems right to me. Helpful hint: It's pretty important that the truck is level when you add the new oil. My driveway is sloped, so all I do is...