Recent content by cwatkin

Yes, going to WM is a miserable experience. If you just need a few things, then it is best just to go to AZ. The Wal-Martians (customers) and the employees that show up to work and were hired because they have a pulse can be a pretty bad deal. As for FRAM, I don't think the orange can is all...

I don't know. Yes, sludge and dirt came out of the engine on the STP change but the oil completely SETTLED out and was PERFECTLY CLEAR! The purpose of detergents is to keep sludge in suspension so it can be trapped by the filter or drained out with the old oil. That 5W40 STP sounds like it is...

I would be interested to see how the STP High Mileage stuff stands up after a recent experience. I bought some 10W40 for a push mower because it was what was available and figured this weight would be OK for a simple L-head mower engine. The mower started smoking and burning oil quite profusely...

I am a big fan of synthetic oils in any air-cooled device because of their greater tolerance to heat and thermal conductivity. I bled the system and came up about 8 ounces short on the fill so am guessing that I didn't get all the old fluid out or it is impossible to get it all out without...

I figured this would be fine and the price was right. Anyway, I will have it later today so might change my fluid tomorrow. Thanks, Conor

I have located 6 quarts of Kolpin 5W50 ATV oil for $2/quart and have it on its way. I am not familiar with this brand but it is 1/5 the price of any others out there. It looks like it is normally about $10/quart. Any opinions on this one? Conor

I have some Mobil 1 15W50 on hand for changing out a Hydro Gear transmission. These call for 15W50 or 20W50 so picked the synthetic. I kinda think this might be too thick on startup for the TT as the unit called for 10W30 from the factory and now calls for a 5W50. Either way, I will get the...

The manufacturer as well as others online. Here it is from the maker of these things: http://www.tufftorq.com/faq/

I am restoring an old lawn tractor that has sat for a while. One of my plans is to change out the transmission fluid once I get the engine running right. It seems that a 5W50 synthetic is suggested. Anyone have a good suggestion for the best brand or variety of oil for this application?

I went to http://www.pennzoil.com/en_us/products/full-synthetic-motor-oils/pennzoil-platinum-euro.html and read the specs. It says it is for "light duty diesel" applications. I don't know what this means but assume it should work in any vehicle that isn't a heavy truck. I don't know but if it is...

It seems the Honda setup is more robust than the Briggs one when it comes to the nylon cams. I found a lot of issues with the nylon cams on Briggs like I experienced but not so much with Honda. I am sometimes amazed at the abuse small engines can withstand. It seems they either hold together...

I understand that the Honda nylon cams are pretty decent. How did I wear a Briggs one down to where it wouldn't run but the tappets looked pretty much pristine? Cast aluminum may be pretty strong but it still isn't as strong as steel. How come they put steel inserts and sleeves into aluminum...

I have to say I am kinda disgusted that many of the cheaper engines these days have gone to plastic cams and timing gears riding upon steel parts. It seems the plastic is destined to wear out before the metal and that both parts should be made of a durable material. That being said, I am sure...

OK, good to hear that the Rotella T6 is pretty much a good universal. I will stick with it unless I hear anything out of the ordinary. I picked up a bunch of trash picked equipment this weekend from a fall bulky trash pickup day. The mower had a dirty carb and I got it started in about 5...

I was curious if anyone has done a scientific analysis of oil in small engines. I have overhead valve as well as the old style flat head type engines. I have been running Rotella T6 in my riding mowers with the Kohler Command and they seem to do very well on this oil. I run them hard and there...