Recent content by Coogles

Vehicle is stock and had an unknown oil change history prior to my ownership.

Originally Posted by JoelB To be clear, that's your opinion, not fact. The fact is in certain vehicles they catch oil that otherwise would have gone into the intake. That doesn't appear to be an issue on this platform. Catch can or no, these cars develop valve deposits. The RacingLine catch...

Does anybody know what the HTHS and NOACK are for Castrol 0w40? https://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/FusionPDS.nsf/Files/ABA58BD5C9E98421802582D000613AC5/$File/BPXE-B33J98.pdf

Related to the comments about the Ravenol being too thick, I think this is a useful comparison. Motul VW 502 - 505 Specific: Density at 20* C .848 Viscosity at 100* C 13.9 Viscosity at 40* C 84.9 Viscosity index 167 Pour Point -36* C versus Ravenol RUP 5w40 Density at 20* C .846 Viscosity...

Originally Posted By: JOD Personally, I think that's way thicker than you need and you'll just end up costing yourself power. Also, keep in mind that if you get an actual tune (not a piggyback tune), your oil temps are going to drop--significantly. After my APR tune, the temps are consistently...

This is the oil I'm eyeing for my personal MK7 GTI at my next change. These cars see oil temps start to climb pretty quickly when driven hard, plus I plan on doing a downpipe, intercooler and tune here shortly, so I want something that's capable of standing up to those potentially high...

Originally Posted By: Tiir With a HTHS of 3.6 you are using the X-clean+ I assume. If you are concerned with TBN, why not use X-clean EFE ? Yeah, you loose .1 HTHS, but is 3.5 to 3.6 really that big of a difference when you gain far more TBN if you plan on running the recommended manufactures...

Originally Posted By: hallstevenson The car is a lease. Do you plan to buy it at the end of the lease ? If not, why overthink this ? I'd been considering buying out the lease early and keeping the car. We just paid off my wife's car, so if the plan is to keep it I might as well start paying...

Originally Posted By: Garak Just to add to the confusion, look at the 5w-40 bit. Now, it's great to say follow the manual to the letter, but that gets problematic when it's impossible to follow the manual to the letter. 5w-40 is an acceptable viscosity, according to the page snippet posted. Now...

Well, the ignore feature made itself useful rather quickly.

Originally Posted By: oil_film_movies Originally Posted By: Coogles I'm using a 5w30 in an attempt to keep Subaru happy under warranty. Except all the oils you choose don't meet warranty requirements. According to the Owner's Manual, which apparently nobody reads, you need a 5w-30 full-synthetic...

This interval will be my last with the Motul, that was my final jug of it. The T6 multi-vehicle 5w30 will likely be what I go with next at 12k miles. Still hoping to see the copper come down on the next run, but if not, at least it's a lease and I can hand back the keys before the warranty expires.

I chose this oil because it has one of the higher HTHS specs (3.6) of any 5w30 I found with an API seal (even though it's not the newest SN spec the manual calls for). More than anything else I'm concerned about keeping those bearings happy, so I'm willing to go with a shorter interval to use an...

3rd run on Motul X-Clean 5w30, I'm using a 5w30 in an attempt to keep Subaru happy under warranty. Break-in oil was changed out at 1k miles, with subsequent changes at 3k, 6k, then again at 9k. Car is (and will remain) bone stock aside from having the noise pipe removed. With only a 2.8 TBN...

Originally Posted By: Vlad_the_Russian Originally Posted By: Spdfrk1990 Originally Posted By: Vlad_the_Russian Do your vehicle a huge favor - use the best oil from the start. Like this here. 0w30 or 0w40 is what I would recommend, but 5w30 is fine as well. 0w30 and 0w40 just have a wider range...