The title says it.
Kid's car has the brake lights and the side markers up front stay on when the key is in the off position. He has to remove the battery cable to keep it charged when parked.
First thought when I heard brake lights was the brake switch. Now I'm told some front lights stay on...
I've told the story here before. My former indy mechanic specifically brought me out a Mercury Cougar instrument cluster and showed me a tiny hole drilled into the side of the cluster, right where the CE light was, disabling it permanently. Some other shop did this maliciously and put it all...
I get a car and turn it on and NEVER turn it off again. The only A/C I've ever had to replace was after 260k on my 2005 CR-V when the compressor grenaded.
227k Civic, 165k Mazda MX-6, 284k CR-V, 154k and counting 4Runner. All cold and only the one replaced.
This is why I insist only on TriVal (Pilkington).
We have the evil terrible Fuyao glass manufacturer not far away and I’ve had two of those, never again.
I reverted back to Toyota WS after using Idemitsu WS (which is probably identical). All other fluids have never been OEM other than that. Pink Zerex, Valvoline diff fluids, Ravenol transfer case. Havoline 6-quart box and a Supertech quart from WM.
Don't worry about it.
My 4Runner is spec'd for 75w-85 in the diffs. I did that at 57k, but when I did it around 100k I switched to the MUCH easier to use Valvoline 75w-90 bags. I'm at 152k. Zero issues.
The only thing I stay true with is the straight 75w that goes into the transfer case...
Late to this party:
In order:
1. Split rear window Vette, 1963
2. 1970 Chevelle, literally any engine version with a stick
3. 2nd gen Honda CRX stick
4. 2nd gen Honda Prelude SI stick
5. TIE: One of the "new" Australian Land Cruisers that aren't allowed here. Pic below. OR, A nice 2014...