Recent content by bruce381

LOL now put in a few drops water AHHHHHHHHHHHH

or defoaming as oil clears from bottom to top

cool then look at entrainment vs surface foam LOL

I would look at Ucon OSP product as a addtive not esters also try methanol, Benzene, toluene and ethyl benzene all @ <.1 each

75/140 OR 85/140 GLEP would be fine not many mfg make "straight" grade GL any more.

Lucas is badly written notes its AGMA and EP in the text AND would be ok to use but yeah poorly written tech sheet.

different fluids and solution "refract" at different angles and give differing readings not knowing what the washer fluid (type or brand) and even if it is real in that some say winter are NOT. So not knowing what was used you will have to "windage" calibrate your readings to what you want...

use it where the API, SAE Etc specs and viscosity are applicable. they are there to keep you out of trouble and make most quality oils interchangeable other than some persevered advantages, any of which you need lab testing to see. Keep it clean and change at correct OCI for your vehicles use...

I really do not know love to hear some comments. So far my feeling is they are too thin for older cars. However in newer engines that ARE designed for them then use them, but till more info I will be minimum 0/20, 5/20wt.

worked with estolides in cutting oils they do help but currently availability of them is small. Ahh here is a hint read the SDS. They use 3 or 4 solvents that clean and then allow the basic chemistry to Hold debris until oil change. i do not know Aniline point may test next time I do a oil...

just go to ISO 68 or 100 Way Lube good AW and good slip NO bad smell

Boron Nitride aswell as moly even to some degree the current trend to Powder coat cast bullets are IMHO jury still out on barrel wear.

try in the equipment that gives you trouble you will have to decide is the price difference is worth it

Try a PAG they have high smoke points BUT for NO smoke use a Moly or Graphite or Boron DRY lube.

ISO 220 would be 50 wt