Recent content by Arved

Originally Posted By: jeff78 You don't have to worry about the 'W' number in Florida, unless you park your bike in a meat freezer. Well, it is expected to be -2C/+28F tonight. "North Florida" can sometimes be considered "South Georgia." However, the engine will not be run under those...

Greetings fellow motorcycling tribologists! I have a 2017 Kawasaki Ninja 300 commute bike now (need to update my sig), and am a bit confused about the oil to use. Pertinent background, this is a water cooled parallel twin, bucket shim tappets, with a common sump between engine, gear box, and...

Very cool looking bike. In the timeframe the bike was built, leaded and unleaded fuel was still commonly available. Unless there's some sticker on the bike saying not to, I'd expect the motorcycle to work just fine. For a real olfactory treat, I miss the smell of castor oil in a 2 stroke. But...

Originally Posted By: grampi Originally Posted By: Arved Originally Posted By: grampi So I make a simple observation and I'm a drama queen/whiner/crier? Okay... "Don't do the crime if you can't do the time." - Baretta They look rather functional to me. Surely there are worse fashion...

Originally Posted By: Nrok83 I need a good premium oil and money is no factor at all. When money is no factor at all, for some reason, I think of Motul. How about Motul 8100 Eco-clean+ 5W-30. Since it's not an LL oil, you'll need to change it more often, but you did say money is no factor at...

Originally Posted By: grampi So I make a simple observation and I'm a drama queen/whiner/crier? Okay... "Don't do the crime if you can't do the time." - Baretta They look rather functional to me. Surely there are worse fashion trends. Like Utilikilts (GD&R).

I have been happy with the brass quick-change garden hose fittings at Home Depot. I think they have two brands, but they are interchangeable. Brass corrodes, which can gum up the fittings, but it's tolerable, and usually easily cleanable. It's just not a perfect solution. Stainless steel might...

Originally Posted By: Fordai So basically, I can use conventional motor oil in my vehicles as long as it meets the API category. Even though the owner's manual recommends synthetic blend? There is no standard (API, SAE, or otherwise) as to what constitutes a synthetic blend. If I have a 20K...

Shoz, I think Luke's conservative approach is warranted given FRAM's decision to redesign it's filter. However, if they're redesigning the filter without changing the part number, that's pretty sloppy configuration management. "That wouldn't fly" on his P-3Cs or P-8As. Respectfully,

Originally Posted By: Corelokt I want billet end caps and hand punched louvers in left hand spiral pattern in my filters. The media needs to all hand woven under a microscope using black widow spider webbing knitted with itsy bitsy knitting needles to keep every pore a guaranteed 2 microns. My...

Most here, at the time (the early days of BITOG) objected to the use of paper end caps. Cheap in comparison to the metal end caps used by others. Some reported separation between the paper end caps and the filter media ends. While paper end caps might sound like a worse idea than metal, it's no...

Ugh... My mistake. My sincerest apologies. XG3614. Bright orange ADBV, but a black gasket. "A mind is a terrible thing to waste," but I had fun doing it.

Are the FRAM Ultras made with black silicone ADBVs and baseplate seals, or are they nitrile? I get a lot more friction when I spin off the filter than filters with (red) silicone baseplate seals, so I'd assumed both were nitrile on the Ultra. The filter is rated for 15K miles, so if it's...

Standardizing on one material for the ADBV must be more economical. I'd rather see the Ultra get a silicone base seal, though. It would make it much easier to remove when it comes time.

No insulator over the positive battery terminal? That just doesn't look right. I'd be more worried about that than the pros and cons of using a group 24 battery in a car spec'd for a group 35.