Recent content by AdmiralYoda

I don't think you are liable at all. You may end up with an angry customer that may not return business to you but you are just a victim of bad timing. Customer comes in for AC work. You do the AC work and the AC is fixed. Customer returns in 7 days because the engine is running rough...

If the rotors are in good shape.... I do nothing. Many of the pads have a break-in coating to help bed the pads anyways. If the rotors look suspect...change them out.

I've had good results with the Rustoleum Professional Enamel line....but it takes a lot of cure time before it becomes durable. I painted an off-road style bumper with it and got a few chips from handling in the first week or so after painting. After about two weeks I could hit it with a...

Is the bolt rounded off a bit or do you just not have enough space to use an extension/breaker bar? I've used a hammer to hit a ratchet plenty of times to break a bolt/nut loose. Poor mans impact gun.

That Mobil 1 Supercar 0W-40 is going to go in my Toyota 22RE next oil change. A little extra viscosity to prevent a low warm idle pressure and can get flowing to the timing chain ASAP. I would 100% feel confident running any of the Mobil 0W-40's in an LS, especially if driven enthusiastically.

Check out the cost of a compressor kit on Rockauto. Do the repair yourself and then pay someone to charge it back up.

Thanks for the link! I've been looking for a new borescope. On my last one the lens/camera portion fell off of the arm while inside the cylinder!!! I got lucky and it was at TDC so it didn't fall all the way in. o_O

You could probably benefit from a BG EPR 109 flush. Get yourself some cheap synthetic, run a short 500-1000 mile OCI and do the BG EPR flush at the end. Do that a couple times and then stick with Valvoline Restore and Protect or your favorite oil with 1-2 bottles of Rislone for the rest of the...

If it is going though 3 quarts of oil in 3k miles....if any decent percentage of that was due to a leak it would be very noticeable by now. It would be collecting somewhere or on the ground. It would be pretty noticeable, especially if you are doing your own oil changes. I vote keep going...

I think gas is still reasonable. Look at the average cost per gallon over the years adjusted for inflation. I used the national average for regular. In a month or so it will down to the pre conflict levels of about $3 per gallon. Cheaper than its been, adjusted for inflation, over the past...

A couple things: Good on you for keeping this out of the junkyard. You probably have a better vehicle than you were expecting after all said and done. Perhaps you should consider going to Valvoline Restore and Protect as your forever oil once you go through your couple short OCI's. I'm an...

These days I suspect there is a lack of high quality technicians and mechanics. It is easier to swap a motor than to tear it down and replace head gaskets. Plus the cylinder head(s) may need machining. There is probably a higher likelihood of the vehicle returning due to a mistake in the...

No harm whatsoever. Will it help the life of the engine? Probably not. As Captain Overkill I'd be tempted to change the oil the second I brought it home. Just to get rid of the OEM commodity oil and to put something "I think" is better in there. Then maybe again at 500, 1,000, 2,000...

If you have a much older stock engine (pre 80's-ish) with a flat tappet cam or a newly built hot rod engine with a flat tappet cam and high spring pressures sure....you could benefit from a higher zinc oil. But I'd use a dedicated oil made specifically for this application and not try and be a...

Yeah with the mileage on that motor I'd just go with Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30 as the forever oil. 3k mile OCI's for mixed use and maybe 5k miles if its mostly highway. Perhaps think about adding a can of BG's EPR 109 flush right before every oil change to try and clean it up a bit...